Bespoke veneered internal FD30 fire doors

[Guest Alex]

Hello!

I'm planning to renovate my apartment and as a part of said renovation, I am looking to replace my existing 23 year old FD30S fire doors.

The problem I have is that I wish to install new floor-to-ceiling door (leaf dimensions will be approximately 2400mm x 900mm; frame thickness will be 100mm) with bespoke oak veneer and handles (see attached photo for an examples, but ignore handles). The frames also need to be quite simple (again, see attached photo). I would like to know how this can be achieved, if at all!

I am happy to purchase fire door frames and leaves (blanks or without finish), intumescent strips as well as fire rated hinges et cetera. I also know that the doors need to be installed by a competent person, which I am happy with.

What I do not know is whether my joiner can add lippings, then put veneer on the fire rated blanks and frames and create the openings for hinges and locks and so on. How can I ensure that the doors are indeed fire safe and approved by building control?

Is it possible to have this done by a joiner? Or do I need a specialist joiner/door manufacturer? If so, any recommendations, please?

Many thanks for your help! This forum is really quite interesting and useful.

Alex
 

[Mike North]

Your best cause of action is to find a couple of suppliers who are willing to supply a pair of bespoke doors sets with the finish you require to the correct size.  The door will come with fitting instructions that any competent joiner can follow, anyone can install the door.  For peace of mind take images of

1.                  Both sides, the fixing of the frame to the opening.

2.                  Both sides, the sealing of the frame to the opening.

All other inspections can be done later, this can be used to prove the door was instaled to the installation instructions

 

[Neil Ashdown MAFDI]

The door blank manufacturer / supplier will be able to provide you or your door fabricator with the 'Technical Manuals' and field of application reports detailing the permitted dimensions, permitted veneer thickness, lipping requirements, seal requirements, ironmongery/hardware requirements and installation tolerances. 

For example: https://falcon-timber.com/downloads/  

[Guest Alex]

Thanks for the speedy replies, Mike and Neil!

Mike: Do you know of any suppliers who work with the veneer of my choice?

Neil: That link was very useful -- thanks for sharing. From what I've read I think that it is possible to have my joiner create a door and frame which is fire safe as long as they carefully adhere to the detailed requirements listed in the field of application reports etc. 

May I kindly ask some follow-up questions which I had upon reading in the hope that you may know:

1. Where in the frame's "main section" do I place the screws to fix to the lining, please? I understand where they should go vertically, but not horizontally. For instance, if I have a frame of depth 100mm and the rebate for the intumescent strip goes into the centre of the first 44mm, can I use that rebate for the screws and then add the intumescent strip over after? This would hide the screws, but they would be positioned at around 21mm out of a total depth of 100mm, so not in the centre.
2. How does one fill the space between frame and wall lining?
3. Is it possible to veneer the frame? I haven't found anything in the documentation this far.
4. What, if any, are the requirements on veneer finishes - varnish, lacquer, FR oil? 
5. From other discussions on this forum I understand that there are no specific requirements on handles themselves as long as the lock and catch are fire safe and properly protected using intumescent pads. Is this correct?

[Mike North]

1. This will be detailed in the fitting instuctions

2.This will be detailed in the fitting instuctions

3. You could always have the frame manulactured bespoke as long as the density of the wood os the same or better

4. Basicaly, no oil based

5. This will be detailed in the fitting instuctions

 

[Guest Alex]

Thanks Mike!

I've read through the documentation Neil pointed me to and have a couple more questions for you.

I have thoroughly read the following (and more; but I am particularly interest in STREDOR 44 blanks in the LSASD configuration):

• https://www.warringtoncertification.com/certificates/CF5614/7208/CF5614 Falcon.pdf
• https://falcon-timber.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/12/FPP-IM-1401-D-Installation-of-Fire-Rated-Doors-fpp-im-1401-installation-of-fire-rated-doorsets.pdf
   

1. Regarding lever handles, the relevant CERTIFIRE certificate (first link) states that any any lever handles are permitted (with mild constraints; see attached image 1):

I assume the above means I could install any commercially available door lever handles. Correct?

 

2. There is only method I could find to fix a FD30 fire door to a perpendicular wall (from BS 8214:2016, see attached image 2).

• Do you know of others? If so, could you point me to the relevant documentation, please?
• Is it possible to fix a fire door directly onto a perpendicular wall (in my case the wall is 140mm blockwork wall with fire rated plasterboard) or do I need to create a linear gap? How small can it be?
• Is it possible to use a larger piece of hardwood instead of the quadrant as long as it does not extend beyond the frame itself?

3. Regarding the linear joint gap seal in a shadow gap arrangement (see attached image 3):

• How do I fill it with hardwood timber in practice? Do I use timber as packers first and then fill the space between timber packers with timber? Any advice from someone with experience would be greatly appreciated.

Many, many thanks!

This forum is an amazing source for all things fire safety!
 

[Neil Ashdown MAFDI]

Lever handles are more durable when fitted with back to back fixings through the door, rather than only face fixings.

A fire door frame can, in theory, be fixed straight to a suitable wall but in reality packers would likely be necessary for the door to positioned correctly. 

Hardwood behind the door frame, as a subframe, could be used. 

A shadow gap is created for aesthetic reasons. Therefore, it would not be filled.