Neil Ashdown MAFDI

Q) I don't see an easy way to determine the gap and seal between the frame and wall when it's painted and finished? The inspector would just use their judgement? A) Remove the architraves or trims where present. Unless of course the door frame can be seen to be an intimate fit with the wall.

Q) What can determine a frame has to be changed? A) Does it meet the specific requirements stated in the certificate of approval / installation instructions for the particular fire door leaf you intend to fit and is the linear gap between the door frame and surrounding wall correctly sized and sealed?

So long as you can demonstrate that the fire door assembly you install has all the documentary evidence of product fire and smoke performance and that the installation work can be confirmed as meeting the relevant standards and regulations, it would be reasonable to expect the management company to be satisfied. It may be prudent to consult them before you proceed. Also, trying to fit a new fire door leaf to an existing door frame is challenging due to the usually very limited allowances permitted when trimming the edges of the door. Personally, I would avoid using basic off the shelf fire door leaves for flat entrance doors and would select a higher quality door with good quality hardware and seals for reliable self-closing performance and high security. Replacing a fire door is notifiable works, so I would also consult the Local Building Control office to check what compliance requirements are required to be met.

It will be necessary to contact the code-lock manufacturer or supplier and examine their specific evidence of fire resistance performance for their product when fitted to a fire door of the type that you intend to use. Generally, that will mean the door must have a solid timber-based core throughout, rather than tubeboard.

Contact ASDMA to find a supplier or manufacturer https://asdma.com/knowledge-centre/

The issue is not so much that the door leaf is not a close fit to the door frame rebate stop. Rather, is the door leaf thickness wholly contained within the door frame rebate or does it stand proud on the 'pull-side'? Some doors have no stated tolerance within their certification document for this issue, others have up to 1mm generally.

Consult Building Regulations. In England & Wales its https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-safety-approved-document-b

Bear in mind the maximum gap should be measured at the point where the intumescent seal is located (eg. double-action doors with rounded meeting edges). Where a fire door manufacturer's technical data fails to address the matter of a 'leading-edge' - consult their technical department.

So long as the 're-lipping work' is done to a 'joinery' standard (the joint should be difficult to detect) this should be acceptable as a suitable repair.

Lever handles are more durable when fitted with back to back fixings through the door, rather than only face fixings. A fire door frame can, in theory, be fixed straight to a suitable wall but in reality packers would likely be necessary for the door to positioned correctly. Hardwood behind the door frame, as a subframe, could be used. A shadow gap is created for aesthetic reasons. Therefore, it would not be filled.

It depends on the condition of the floor. You could fit a static flexible seal to one face of the door leaf to seal the bottom edge but the seal must not impede the self-closing action of the door.

The installer should consult the certification data sheet / technical manual for that particular make and type of door leaf before cutting the aperture and fitting the fire & smoke rated letter plate. Where the relevant document does not permit such a letter plate, then the door manufacturer technical dept should be consulted. Where a letter plate has been fitted to a door where one is not permitted - this would be a 'non-compliance'. It would not become a Nominal Fire Door.

The door blank manufacturer / supplier will be able to provide you or your door fabricator with the 'Technical Manuals' and field of application reports detailing the permitted dimensions, permitted veneer thickness, lipping requirements, seal requirements, ironmongery/hardware requirements and installation tolerances. For example: https://falcon-timber.com/downloads/

The usual required threshold gap for a typical timber-based fire door is 10mm max. It may be possible to reduce your 20mm to 25mm gaps by fixing a threshold plate to the floor or a hardwood lipping to the door bottom edge - you will need to survey each door and floor area to decide which (possibly both) is appropriate. A threshold plate may, of course, present a trip hazard. Assess the hazard. Where restricted smoke spread is a requirement, it may be necessary to install a flexible seal to close the threshold gap in the door-closed position.

We would always repair where possible. We have some Leaderflush certification data sheets and installation guide that may include configuration for intumescent seals at meeting edges. If of interest you can contact me via www.firedoorscomplete.com

You could check the 1990 version of BS 8214.

If using pins be careful to avoid ironmongery fitting positions and bury them as deeply as possible. Make sure the adhesive you use matches the requirements of the evidence of performance (field of application report) for the door leaf / door blank / door core.

Check the evidence of fire performance for the chosen sealant used at that gap with that frame material and wall substrate.

In terms of security, a solid door frame section rebated to suit the door leaf would be better than planted.

There are several types of designs for timber based fire doors, most will have lipping requirements but there are some without lipping. Where lipping is a requirement, density and thickness will be specified by the data sheet for the door leaf. As for trim allowances, fire door leaves can have different core construction types some having stiles and rails and some without. Some having a tubeboard core and some being completely solid. That's why there are variations in permitted trim allowances. Select the fire door leaf most appropriate to its end use. There is no 'one size fits all' when it comes to installation. The data sheet for that particular fire door leaf will provide the necessary details but you will also find BS 8214: 2016 invaluable for guidance. A new version of that Standard is due out this year I believe.

I would advise you to have the door inspected by a competent fire door inspector and then to contact your housing provider accordingly. https://afdi.org.uk/category/find-a-fire-door-inspector/

Yes some holes in timber fire door leaves can be repaired using tightly fitted hardwood and suitable adhesive. Clearly, any product certification for the door will be void but if certification is required a maintenance & repair contractor belonging to a relevant certification scheme may be able to certificate their work. Also, worth checking with the door manufacturer whether the magnetic lock is permitted under the scope of their certification/field of application report.

Other types of smoke seals are available. These types will make it easier for the door to self-close. https://www.lorientuk.com/products/architectural-seals/perimeter-seals

This refers to the checks to satisfy Regulation 10 of the Fire Safety (England) Regulations 2022 https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2022/547/regulation/10/made But if your property is not in-scope there is still a requirement to ensure your fire doors are suitable and in good condition, refer to Article 17 of the Fire Safety Order https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2005/1541/article/17

The gap between the door and frame should (generally) be between 2mm and 4mm. The gap should be measured at the point central to the thickness of the door. Also, you are measuring from the surface of the door edge to the surface of the door frame. So disregard the smoke seal when measuring the gap. To be effective, the smoke seal brush or blade must lightly contact the surface that it sweeps or presses against. Hope this helps.