AnthonyB

No, smoke alarms in the common space have no value other than to confuse residents as to the evacuation strategy and potentially cause them to leave the safety of their flats into a danger area (which has had fatal consequences). We generally have them removed. Detection (without alarm) is only required where needed to operate an automatic smoke control system. They are also inadequate where a full evacuation policy is needed.

I suggest you read the guidance here https://www.local.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/fire-safety-purpose-built-04b.pdf This will allow you to assess what improvements may be needed and also that smoke alarms in the hallways are not required and of no real value

Walker Fire? They love sticking yellow warning stickers on blankets, even when they've just supplied them new (They are also often used without just cause and I have a clipboard covered in ones I've peeled off again!). Unlike extinguishers there is no British Standard guidance for the provision of blankets so it's a combination of risk assessment, tradition and 'another sale' that seems to dictate provision. Blankets are useful for small contained fires in many items, such as: - Chip & frying pans (no greater than 300mm diameter/3 litres of oil in line with the maximum test fire they are used on) - Small metal non mesh waste bins - Small parts solvent dip trays They used to be suggested back in the day for TV's back in the cathode ray tube days (before flat screens) where they could be draped over the top vents. Most installed blankets are only just over 1m x 1m (& people on fire training courses are surprised when they see how small they are) so if you need them for their other use, clothing fires, you may need a bigger blanket (they are made up to 1.8m x 1.8m). In your situation you don't really need them if there is a suitable extinguisher nearby, if they are all condemned just bin them and do without them. Beware of the fakes of which hundreds are sold each year (especially on Amazon & eBay) that are like tissue paper blankets, if it doesn't have a kitemark symbol and genuine KM number (checkable on BSIs website) I wouldn't trust it.

Depends on the fire separation, if it was all correctly underdrawn during the conversion to compartment the basement from the rest of the building to a suitable level of fire resistance then you may not need to link it. If you do, then if there is at least a notional fire resistance you could avoid the false alarm risk by installing heats off the common system in the basement to provide the warning to the flats about and leaving the pt 6 smokes down there self contained for the life safety of that flat only. If it's no FR of any reliable sort then the first thing to try is to upgrade it, as a last resort (due to false alarm risk) you may need smokes linked to the common system (on the basis heats would be too slow if there is no FR)

Sounds similar to a scenario on an FRA based course I did at the Fire Service College a few weeks ago where the conclusion was the situation was not tenable and required structural alterations to provide protected routes removing the need to pass through the kitchen. Building Control may well not have been anywhere near the job, a lot of stuff gets done under the radar - it's also sadly likely that they have and OK'd it (some horrific stuff gets passed as there is little sanction against the certifier). It doesn't really matter who went before and said it was OK - if it doesn't look right and you don't feel comfortable do not accept it as unlike BC your neck will be on the line if something goes wrong. It might not be what the client wants to hear, but sadly that's life. Try and come up with some suggestions to make it better.

Is the kitchen area separated from the stair and exit by fire resisting construction?

They can be adjusted, they should generally shut the door within 10 seconds in any case.

They are controlled waste and can only legally be removed by a licensed waste contractor, or if taking them yourselves, to a licensed waste transfer station. Fire extinguisher maintenance contractors can often dispose of them, but you should see that they have a Waste Carriers License (in any case but particularly if you are paying them!) otherwise you are committing an offence - not all are. You should get a waste transfer note from them. Most local authority waste stations can take them, but as these are primarily for domestic rate payers most will reject any that appear to be of commercial origin. https://www.fireprotectionrecycling.co.uk/ are one of the main disposal companies in the UK and in addition to collecting directly also have skips at several trade suppliers sites across the UK. Where are you? I'm licensed to dispose of extinguishers as well.

Same as any extinguisher for domestic premises: - If you want the cheapest option then there is ABC Powder. However it's very messy and damaging and isn't the nicest stuff to breath in or see what you are doing when discharging. Will also cover any risk in the home involving solids, liquids and electrical equipment, but not cooking oils - The most expensive option is Water Mist. It's clean and undamaging and suits the three main domestic risks: fires in solids, fires in electrical equipment, fires in cooking oils. CO2 gas extinguishers aren't really suited to domestic use, neither are the normal water jet and water spray extinguishers. Foam spray is a possibility, but most suppliers won't ratify their use directly on electrical fires other than accidentally (long story!)

A lot of fire protection suppliers stock Jonesco products that include this product for smaller extinguishers: http://www.jonesco-plastics.com/en/jfex03-fire.html

The front door needs to be a fire door for the protection of the common space & other flats. As a conversion the appropriate fire safety benchmark is likely to be in here: https://www.rla.org.uk/docs/LACORSFSguideApril62009.PDF This requires current standard FD30S doorsets. Upgrading products for existing doors that have test accreditation do exist and are a fraction of the cost, however you would need to be sure that the freeholder would accept this.

You are correct that a shared house currently has less stringent requirements that a HMO (licensed or otherwise, but note the definition changes in October). This guide applies: https://www.rla.org.uk/docs/LACORSFSguideApril62009.PDF You appear to have the stairs going into a lounge as part of escape, this could cause issues (or should!).

No they aren't. Building Regulations still differentiates between situations where FD30S & FD30 doors are required and until the doorset has it's seals fitted there is the possibility of fitting either just intumescent strips or strips and cold smoke brushes. A traditional interpretation has been that FD30 doors are for property protection (preventing the spread of heat and flame but not hazardous fire effluent) FD30S doors are for life safety as well as providing property protection. Some fire door inspectors will not risk assess and will condemn anything other than a certified FD30S, others will, in accordance with current government guidance and recommended risk assessment methodology be more proportionate - whilst FD30S should still be an aspirational goal in all cases there are circumstances where upgraded or notional doors remain tolerable in the interim (look at the Determination on fire doors by the Secretary of State,whilst it only applies to that one building it shows the thought process behind the proportionate approach).

It's very unusual to need emergency lighting in the actual bedrooms you will not find it required in any of the guidance or standard for emergency lighting or the approved documents to the Building Regulations. You would normally only require it on escape routes. I'd challenge Building Control as you don't see hotel bedrooms in new builds with emergency lighting! Plug in Combined nightlight/torches that illuminate on mains failure and either motion detection/darkness (switchable) are widely available and would be more sensible. If necessary leave them there, get signed off, then the Fire Safety Order takes over from Building Regulations, do an FRA, determine they aren't needed, take them out and if appropriate put the plug in torches in place - would be a quicker way around it!

There needs to be a legal easement, deed of variation or similar allowing them access and any necessary conditions (e.g. emergency use only). You would usually find it in the premises legal pack along with the freehold/leasehold agreement. If there is no written agreement you are entitled to secure your premises, but you should consult a specialist in property law as if they've enjoyed use of the route without being told they can't for a long historical period they can try and get the access formalised in court (Or so I've read in case law,but it's not my speciality). You could also grant them a formal easement in return for a reasonable admin fee,rent, etc.

If you don't know the answer to these questions then you should NOT be messing around with fire alarm systems. You can of course run a conventional radial zone of call points & detectors on an addressable system by having the usual end of line resistor at one end of the radial and the other linked to a Zone Monitor on the addressable loop. Of course you won't get an individual address for the devices, only the monitor will have an address and text e.g. "Zone 3-2nd floor", but it allows for gradual upgrades of existing systems - it's not unknown for a building to have a nice shiny addressable panel, but the loop only has conventional zones from the old system on and no addressable devices. I've even seen an old 3-wire 240V system linked to an addressable system. If you are having to junction box cables remember it's a critical signal path so must be fire resisting and don't mess up the connecting, many a bodge has reversed polarity, caused earth faults, short or open circuits and generally affected the efficacy of the system. For technical advice the www.firealarmengineers.com/forum is invaluable, but anyone unqualified and trying to bodge will rightly get a frosty reply!

If it's a self contained bulkhead they are so cheap for complete new fittings why bother fiddling around, just replace the lot. If it's a more expensive conversion kit there may be some saving, but if you aren't competent then you are risking breaking the law, bodging it up so they don't work (or even start a fire). It's not changing a bulb.

Yes, they have an impact on the safety of relevant persons in the common areas and elsewhere in the premises. Even a basic Type 1 Fire Risk Assessment should do this (extract from the Government Guidance): "Type 1 – Common parts only (non-destructive) A Type 1 fire risk assessment is the basic fire risk assessment required for the purpose of satisfying the FSO. The inspection of the building is non-destructive. But, as well as considering the arrangements for means of escape and so forth, the fire risk assessment includes examination of at least a sample of flat entrance doors." Read more at: https://www.local.gov.uk/sites/default/files/documents/fire-safety-purpose-built-04b.pdf

In scenario 1 you have an exit which should be panic proof, but is not as the mag lock installation isn't BS7273-4 compliant. There is a resulting crush hazard risk (moreso if a place of assembly) and remedial action is required. Scenario 2 requires no action as inward opening doors are usually tolerable where less than 60 persons use the door.

Generally yes, you do have ignition sources, combustibles and relevant persons in these buildings: Fire-fighting and fire detection 13.—(1) Where necessary (whether due to the features of the premises, the activity carried on there, any hazard present or any other relevant circumstances) in order to safeguard the safety of relevant persons, the responsible person must ensure that— (a)the premises are, to the extent that it is appropriate, equipped with appropriate fire-fighting equipment and with fire detectors and alarms; and (b)any non-automatic fire-fighting equipment so provided is easily accessible, simple to use and indicated by signs. (2) For the purposes of paragraph (1) what is appropriate is to be determined having regard to the dimensions and use of the premises, the equipment contained on the premises, the physical and chemical properties of the substances likely to be present and the maximum number of persons who may be present at any one time. (3) The responsible person must, where necessary— (a)take measures for fire-fighting in the premises, adapted to the nature of the activities carried on there and the size of the undertaking and of the premises concerned; (b)nominate competent persons to implement those measures and ensure that the number of such persons, their training and the equipment available to them are adequate, taking into account the size of, and the specific hazards involved in, the premises concerned; and (c)arrange any necessary contacts with external emergency services, particularly as regards fire-fighting, rescue work, first-aid and emergency medical care. (4) A person is to be regarded as competent for the purposes of paragraph (3)(b) where he has sufficient training and experience or knowledge and other qualities to enable him properly to implement the measures referred to in that paragraph.

Exit boxes are usually either "Maintained" which are permanently lit by the mains feed and by the internal batteries upon power failure; or "Non Maintained" which are not normally lit by the mains feed and only illuminate via the internal batteries upon power failure. Maintained fittings are usually required in places of assembly (pubs, clubs,cinemas,conference and exhibition areas,halls, etc) as these can sometimes have low light levels under normal operating conditions - Non maintained fittings are usually OK everywhere else as under normal conditions there is suitable artificial (or natural) lighting to illuminate the sign. It's not uncommon for random mixes of types in a building. Your unlit signs could be non maintained,or maintained with a blown bulb! The enclosures are usually marked on the side or base with their type (either in full or abbreviated NM or M as part of the luminaire type code) Your fire risk assessment should determine the requirements across your estate.

Or just use Water Mist extinguishers throughout to simplify things, 6 litre units are 13A rated just like foam, but can also be used on electrical fires and cooking oil fires: https://www.safelincs.co.uk/ultrafire-water-mist-fire-extinguishers/ As a licensed premises you require a written fire risk assessment carried out by a competent person regardless of the number of persons employed, you can use a (preferably third party certified) external provider,or do it yourself following this guide: https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/fire-safety-risk-assessment-small-and-medium-places-of-assembly The Fire Risk Assessment will determine what you need regarding fire alarms, extinguishers,etc. If your pub includes sleeping accommodation then it's a high priority for audit by the fire service's enforcement teams so you need to make sure everything is right.

You will require planning permission, plans and Building Control approval. You should appoint a competent person to assist with this. Building Regulations are here: https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/441669/BR_PDF_AD_B2_2013.pdf

Depends on the size and layout of the premises. Small 1 or 2 room lock up shop/small office type premises can have torches (ideally those you plug in and automatically light up when the power fails, they aren't too expensive and will still cover you if there is a local lighting circuit failure as whilst they are plugged into the ring circuit the units invariably are also night lights so will light up due to the darkness). Anything bigger and you may have to consider 'proper' emergency lighting. Saying staff should walk around with a torch all day is plainly daft. Most phones have torches or can have free torch apps added anyway.

Most of the big trade supplier's still refurbish CO2 extinguishers (the one I use does 500 a day) as there is a big enough cost saving to the trade to make it worth doing. Some small independents also still have the kit. Check Fire, PJ Fire and Jewel Saffire all still offer UK wide filling, testing and exchanging, saves around £6-8 a unit on a 2kg and a far more substantial sum on the 5kg. All these also give a deposit value (credit and for some cash too) which if you don't need an exchange CO2 can be used against any of their other products.