Safelincs

Hi, yes, these products exist. Magnetic locks can hold your fire doors closed but will release if the fire alarm sounds. There are additional overrides available. http://www.safelincs.co.uk/magnetic-locks/

Hi Anthony, You have another alarm in the room somewhere. Have a look in cupboards etc to see if you have a smoke or CO alarm somewhere. The alarm base cannot beep Harry

The common alternative to key switches is to simply flick off the relevant lighting fuses, which switches off not only the power supply to emergency lights but also ordinary lighting. This means that you can only carry out the test after working hours, as the remaining light levels will be too low for work purposes. With a key switch on the other hand you are only cutting the power to your emergency lights without affecting your normal lighting. So the test can be carried out during working hours (some safety critical areas might require a different routine!). Harry

Hi Paul It depends whether your alarm is a heat, ionisation or optical alarm. A heat alarm would not react to a burning match at all (unless you get far too close to the sensor). Ionisation and optical will react with different delays, depending from the amount of smoke generated. In general you should just rely on the test button. If you get a sound your alarm should be working correctly. If you are desperate to really test the response or your ionisation and optical smoke alarms you should buy a test spray. Harry

I can suggest a number of reasons for the alarm to enter into alarm state. All Carbon Monoxide alarms have an operating temperature parameter which is stated for the model. Exceeding this can cause the alarm to operate abnormally in that it may not reliably detect carbon monoxide. Placement as per the information in the user’s manual is important for the correct operation of the alarm. From the information provided in the question the placement of the alarm may be incorrect. (For example in the Kidde 10LLCO manual it states:- Place the alarm at least 2 metres from fuel burning appliances, and not more than 4 metres away from fuel burning appliances). This may have been the reason for the alarm though you should not readily assume that this is the case and you should check further. Exposure of the alarm sensor to other chemicals as provided in the user manual, stating that the sensor can be affected by and may cause false alarms when there is:- Methane, Propane, Iso-butane, Iso-propanol, Ethylene, Benzene, Toluene, Ethyl acetate, Hydrogen Sulphide, Hydrogen, Sulphur Dioxide, alcohol based products, paints, thinners, solvents, adhesives, hair-sprays, aftershaves or perfumes and some cleaning agents. Exposure to actual carbon monoxide gas. The alarm may have sounded as the unit responded to a source of CO possibly from the wood burner. If the models are the Kidde 8LLCO, 8LLDCO, 10LLCO and 10LLDCO, these units have a download capability and Kidde can provide you with feedback as to the event history for the alarm. Kidde would need the units back for that purpose. They can also check any returned alarms to establish if they detect carbon monoxide gas and provide feedback to assist you.

Hi Jane There is a risk that the glue and the solvent could affect the detector. I would recommend smoke alarm sticker pads. Harry

Hi Kez The low temperature will most likely have affected the backup battery's voltage and triggered some sort of low battery warning. If it's a unit with alkaline backup battery you need to change the battery, alternatively, the alarm might be older than ten years and needs replacing. Harry

Hi Simpo This definitely sounds like a wiring issue, whether a miss-wire on the interconnect from installation or as a result of a power surge, blowing the interconnect and possibly the live in resistor. This would lead to the green mains light not being on, and in quite a few cases (although not all) erratic behaviour such as random beeps or even false alarms. Our suggestion would be that the wiring is checked by an electrician (continuity, megger test etc.) before the units are replaced. The green light should then be on and all should be OK. Harry

Hi Marath Yes, we can ship to Portugal, please contact us using the international form and we will help. Harry

Hi Marath The smoke in your case is not really a fire risk, so a smoke alarm is not really helpful. You are, however, at risk of carbon monoxide poisoning. Cooling fires produce significant amounts of carbon monoxide and if this leaks into the room, you are at risk. You should consider buying a carbon monoxide detector. More info about carbon monoxide Harry

Hi Ruth The base plates for the Ei160 series are the same as for the E140 series. All you need is a new ei160 easichange detector head replacement which can be fitted without an electrician. Harry

Hi MKP It's certainly worth a chat with Aico. They are very knowledgeable and helpful! The switching off is a safety precaution, as you could touch live wire if you were to push a screw driver into the connecting slots. Harry

Hi Elliot I have checked with Aico and they are happy to check out your alarm for free Kind Regards Harry

Hi Tony, you need a figure 61 or figure 66 door closer. Many door closers can be used in this setup. For an overview about the different fire door closer setups and an explanation of the figures (follow links), visit this overview Harry

Hi Tara It really depends from the model but most mains powered alarms indicate correct power supply with a green light. If this has changed you should call back your electrician. Harry

Hi Graeme, there is a helpful video showing you how to remove the smoke alarm head (you call it cover) of the Ei141. You ought to replace your battery ideally once a year rather than wait for the warning sound to start. As the battery voltage drops when the temperature is getting colder you are always likely to have the alarm beep a low battery warning at night when it is cooler. Hi Yer ma, I would bet you have another alarm (eg a CO alarm) in the same room that is low on battery. Please let me know should I be wrong! Harry

It sounds as if you have been supplied with an Ei156TLR instead of an Ei156TLH. The two extra wires are for an older style of wiring to things like the old test/hush switch or old style call points. Presumably you don't have any of these? If this is the case, then the two extra wires can be ignored and the alarm can be wired as normal. Harry

Hi Jackey, this depends from both the media use (water, foam, powder; CO2) and the size and make of extinguisher. Length of fire fighting varies greatly. You have to look out for the discharge time in the technical information of extinguisher. Example

Hi Suzanne The cooking fumes would suggest Ionisation smoke alarms are fitted, so this would be expected, but I would say that the beeping is coincidental, and that the beeps from all alarms, with no green lights on any is showing a definite wiring issue – quite likely a large surge of power may have occurred previously and may have damaged the alarms. I would suggest an electrician checks the wiring etc but if it was a surge then the wiring will be fine, and the problem is then in the alarms themselves. If the wiring is fine would suggest that the alarms are investigated by Aico, the UK distribution alarm of Ei Electronics. Harry

It sounds as if your battery leaked, lost its charge and caused low battery warning. If it was an actual alarm rather than low battery warning maybe the battery created gases and triggered the alarm. Hydrogen from lead acid batteries (boats etc) can trigger CO alarms. Harry

You should not normally require overhead door closers as well, as long as the units work well and reliably close the doors fully. There are a number of different Perko door closers, though, with varying levels of certification. Both Perko and Astra offer basic concealed door closers claiming to be compliant to the relevant standards. The upper end of concealed door closers, such as Perkomatic and Powermatic have actually been certified. Harry

Hi Richard It could be that the cooler night reduced the voltage of the backup battery and temporarily dropped it below the warning level. If it is older than 10 years you will sadly need to replace the smoke alarm. Luckily there is a simply DIY smoke alarm head replacement possible that does not require an electrician.

Hi Neil Check 1 - is the fuse in the electricity cupboard flicked off? Check 2 - is the green light coming on if the light switch is flicked on in that room? If so, the unit is incorrectly wired. It should be connected to the 'always on' wires if it is indeed powered by lighting circuit in the first place. Check 3 - Is the 4985 unit older than ten years? If so, it needs replacing with a new Kidde Firex smoke alarm To check the date remove the alarm off the ceiling watch the removal video If check one to three are all ok, it's time to get an electrician to check your power supply. Harry

Without knowing the brand it is difficult to help. I am guessing that the second alarm also needs a new battery.

Hi David I contacted the manufacturer and received a very helpful reply: 'This definitely sounds like contamination inside the sensor of the alarms – most likely the Ei146. As they have tried cleaning them, we do offer a free of charge inspection/service to the end users, so if they want they can send the heads of the alarms (without batteries) in a jiffy bag along with a covering letter and we will service and return to them usually within 2-3 working days. The alarms are borderline for this service as we do not service alarms over 8 years old, so if they could return them as soon as then we will get them sorted for them.' Harry