green-foam

You appear to be saying your smoke alarm is only 6 months old, if this is the case, I suggest you send it back under warrantee. If your smoke alarm is over 12 months old I would suggest that as the BRK 670MBX is an ionisation smoke alarm I would suggest you change it to an optical smoke alarm such as This one from safelincs

Not ignoring you, this forum has got very slow lately.? MY OPINION Domestic: Would you pay someone to come into your house once a week to press the test button on your smoke alarm? You would also have to find enough people to let you do it to make it viable. Domestic is a non starter. Commercial: Similar to domestic, but with a twist. To comply with regulations it must be tested by a competent person, are you competent? Unlike domestic premises, there are commercial premises that do have an outside company test the fire alarm every week on the same day, but I would point out those that have it done, already have a company doing it. Problems: You would need your own: Transport, test equipment, insurances, paperwork to prove you have visited site, knowledge of a variety of fire alarms, (What will you do when you find one device that does not work?) cover for when you are not available, credibility, invoicing procedure etc. Solution: Go and work for a fire alarm company, such a job as you seek does exist.

It depends if they are interlinked or not. (You do not say) Also it depends on how long it sounded for, as interlinked alarms do have a slight delay. What happened when you pressed the test button.

It must have been a pocket of carbon monoxide floating about that caused on then the other to activate. Since you do not mention any more activations, I would have to assume the pocket of carbon monoxide has since dispersed. Have you since pressed its test button, and did it sound? I would however suggest you purchase a battery operated stand alone CO alarm that has a digital counter as well as the two you have and monitor the display.

The LED must be visible at all times, how else would anyone know the EL fitting is being charged. The fact is that companies that make EL fittings are just using brighter LED's for everything, there is at least one manufacturer who has added a "dimmer" to the green charging LED, hopefully it will catch on.

In the absence of a reply, I will explain my reasoning. A lot of folk will plug their toothbrush charger into the shaver socket and leave it and seem to assume "The plug fits, so it must be ok" This is actually NOT always true. The first shaver sockets were just for electric shavers and will only be used once a day for 5 minutes at most. (When the shaver socket was invented, there was no such thing as an electric toothbrush.) Unlike a shaver that is on for 5 minutes at most, a tooth brush takes close to 24 hours to fully charge, a tooth brush uses more current and is on for a considerably longer time than a shaver, this in turn causes the shaver socket to get hot, eventually the shaver socket will fail if it doesn't catch fire first. To combat this the shaver/toothbrush socket was invented, this socket can easily cope with the current demand and duration that a toothbrush puts on it, so to differentiate between shaver only and shaver/toothbrush socket a logo of an electric toothbrush has been added to sockets that can charge a toothbrush or a shaver. (See Symbol 2) the downside is most folk either do not look for "Symbol 2" or as I first said assume that if the plug fits it must be OK

Since it started to beep, which indicates a low battery, and it stopped beeping when you put in another battery, but then some hours later started beeping again, I would suggest the "new" battery you used is not suitable and that you should use as the manufacturer says, Duracell or Energiser.

What do you mean by "indicator emergency light?"

I would have to ask which symbol does it have on it, symbol-1 or symbol-2 ?

This is a UK based forum, there are different regulations in America, so we can not help you at this time ?.

As you asked over a week ago (This forum has become very slow as of late) I presume the fire dept have been and gone? I would be concerned about the date on your CO detector, be it that is the installation date or the end of life date it needs changing. I assume you are in America? this is a UK forum.

In short: A D2 system is mains powered with user changeable standby batteries. An F2 system is only battery powered. (with user changeable batteries) I would suggest you get another quote as although "wireless" systems are quicker to install and the installation process is less disruptive they can be more expensive than a wired system, also there is the ongoing cost of batteries which will need to be changed.

More information please: 1) Make and model of your smoke alarms is? 2) When you say Please be more specific, what happens, how often does this happen, how old are they?

Having never heard of either, I used google to find that the firex par 230c is made by Kidde, I then asked Kidde what the replacement is, they said "The KF20R is a direct replacement for the firex par 230c." So a big thanks to Kidde.

How is a megaflow a fire risk? As you say it is a pressurised cylinder full of water. There is no danger of it ever catching fire, and if there is an external fire the cylinder has multiple safety features.

Sorry to say but that is a legal question, this is a fire safety forum that can not offer legal advice. I would however suggest, as FENSA raised the issue, you ask FENSA

It is not unusual for floor screed to activate carbon monoxide detectors.

If you have pressed the test button and the detector operated as it should, and the detector is within its expiry date then you have nothing to worry about.

There appears to be a problem with the electronics of the light fitting. It would be cheaper and quicker to replace the light fitting than to take it down and then to find someone to diagnose what component has failed (Capacitor) Safelincs can supply a new LED EM light for £25+vat Click here

Are these mains operated smoke alarms with battery back up? Assuming that they are, there is no smoke alarm that is compatible with the bases that your alarms have. (BRK pulled out of the European market.) This means you will have to change the base and the alarm. All new smoke alarms should be interlinked (Check to see if yours were interlinked via a 3 core and earth cable) If they did have a 3 core AND earth cable then you can get any mains interlinked smoke alarm. If on the other hand they are NOT interlinked by cable you can get radio interlinked alarms that have a 10 year battery life and do not require an electrician. Safelincs supply a variety of smoke alarms which you can see if you Click here

Press and hold the test button for 30 seconds

No green light means no mains. The fact that putting them on a different circuit and the green light comes on proves the devices are ok, and that the first 3 have no mains.

If you installed wired smoke alarms in 2005 You should change ALL of them as they only have a 10 year life. If it is easy to install a new 3 core and earth cable from one detector to your new Heat alarm, then I would do that as it will be cheaper than all new radio alarms, but if it is not easy then yes, change them all to radio interlinked alarms.

Did you take it down, remove the battery then press and hold the test button? If yours is a Deta 1153 they are obsolete, and if the suggestion does not work, then you will have to change it.

Without being there to see it, it is hard to say, but I will guess you have blown a fuse.