green-foam

Please do not ask other posters a question, the reason being that they will often post a question and never be heard from again, the poster you are "asking" posted 2 years ago, never to be heard from again. Several questions for you. What is the make / model of your smoke alarm? How old is it? When did you last change its battery? When did you last clean it? Does it work when you press the test button? Have you had ANY electrical work carried out in the last 2 months? I ask these questions as I am not there, so I do not know the answers. Sometimes people assume that all the smoke alarms they have are all the same, they should be but sometimes they are not, that is why I ask you to check the make and model.

If it does not chirp when not connected to the base, then it could be caused by another device that is connected that has a nearly low battery. I would take all the other interconnected devices down, put the heat alarm back, then check the other devices battery age and put them back one by one.

Forgive me if I am in error, but you have already asked the same question earlier (See your reply from Anthony B Click here) but this time you seem to be asking how to do the job in terms of what you can or can not connect to a sounder. Most fire alarms nowadays are addressable, you would need to add an interface which is compatible with the fire panel, which is then connected to the appropriate alarm loop and the door release is connected to the interface, then you tell the fire panel when you want the interface to operate. (The panel will also monitor the interface.) Fire alarms have become specialist, long gone are the days with twin and earth to call points and pyro for mains sounders.

Confirming some facts: Which model are your smoke alarms? When were the batteries last changed? Did you look around all of the smoke alarms when they activated? Were there any visible signs or smells of anything unusual? How did you try to stop them? Is this only the second time you have had a false alarm? Did you time how long they sounded for? as going off twice in two weeks is not Was anything happening outside the property? Builders, large delivery lorry, bonfire? What time of day (Roughly) were the activations? Were any windows open? Have they been silent since? Do you test them on a regular basis? Only asking to establish some facts.

It has been known. But in the UK we don't often use domestic ionisation smoke alarms

It would appear that Ajax are a "new" burglar alarm manufacturer who also make a combined smoke/heat/CO detector for use with their system (As opposed to stand alone.) and they do NOT make fire alarms, also nothing they offer is wired. There are better options out there. I would guess the "Online event" will be a sales / recruiting pitch

I presume you mean suite? It should have had a permanent label sewn to it somewhere, if this is no longer there, then if you are a professional seller/retailer then no you can not sell it. If you are a private individual, it will be up to the buyer if they wish to buy it or not. If they do not want it, it will have to be disposed of at the dump as charity shops will NOT accept it if it does not have a permanently attached "fire label"

So long as the fire alarm complies to the regulations it is possible to use any brand of fire alarm. The most popular fire alarm for non domestic alarms is made by EMS. If on the other hand you mean alarms for domestic premises then they can have radio interlinked devices (No actual fire panel) the most popular is made by Aico.

What exactly is happening in your situation, and what is the make and model of your smoke alarm and how old is it, and when did you last change its battery?

This is a fire safety forum, not a legal forum. I can only suggest you seek advice from a solicitor etc.

If the alarm indicated low battery, I would suspect it needs a new battery. Since the other CO alarm remained silent, and sounded when you pressed the test button, this would indicate a problem (Low battery?) with the first CO alarm. A few questions. How old are they both? When did you last change the batteries? What is the make and model of each CO alarm? I should also point out that CO2 is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy, it is also what CO2 fire extinguishers are filled with. Carbon Monoxide is written as CO

Would it not be an idea to ask the course provider exactly what it does and does not cover?

Only a guess, water damage.

No. If you did then you would not know if it is powered or not, which is the function of the green LED

The labels would have complied at the time, but it is up to the charity shop if they will take them or not, so I suggest you ask them and find out.

Since no one has yet replied......? (Just my opinion) AFDD's only became a "must" in March 22, anything installed prior to then will NOT require an AFDD To confirm a site has AFDD's you will need to open the consumer unit lid (That's lid, not cover) Should you really be going that far? What will you then do if none are installed? As I said prior to March they need not have any, so your first problem would be you need to establish when the consumers unit was installed. Suppose it was installed last week in a care home and it has no AFDD's all you can do is point out it should have them but doesn't have them when you looked. I would also suggest that a lot of places will not have them purely due to cost, one single AFDD costs £100* which is ten times as much as an RCBO also anywhere that "must" have AFDD's will require one for each circuit of sockets*, and they are known to NOT WORK 100% of the time on final ring circuits*, and since most sockets are on ring circuits........... Give it another 5+ years and the price comes down then yes, but until then....... * I checked on manufacturer's website.

It would be worth making sure the devices are clean and dust free. You should also test them to make sure they are working, another thing to check is how old are they? and when did you last change the batteries.

Not wanting to be pedantic, but this is a Fire Safety forum, not a building safety forum. I can only suggest you ask the building safety regulator/local council/Building control

..............and the burglar alarm activates.

Yes, too expensive, and creates more problems than it would solve.

In short it is good advice, but the electrician is wrong in what he said and probably saying so to get extra work.

The green LED indicates that mains is present, the red flashing LED should flash once every 40 seconds to indicate it is working. Deta give their smoke alarms a 5 year guarantee. So I can only suggest you get in contact with them.

If the fire alarm is addressable then it may be possible to add an I/O interface. But it would be a job for the fire alarm company to do. It also depends on the make of fire alarm as to if it will accept an I/O device.

Which alarm was it? Make / model, how old is it, when did you last change its batteries?