green-foam

When your carbon monoxide alarm is near its end of life (Average life is 5-10 years, some are 7 years, it should be marked on the unit) may I suggest you get one with a digital display, that way you can see any level of CO. You can buy one with display for £25.19 Click here You can buy one with display for £24.90 Click here Please note BOTH the above have replaceable batteries, which means they are NOT suitable for Scotland For a carbon monoxide alarm with non replaceable battery which is Suitable for Scotland Click here

Make/model of device would be helpful, has it made any noise since? If it has made no further noise, and it works when the test button is pressed all should be well.

What do you mean by Fire/smoke alarms must be tested once every six months, but often they are tested once a week, this is not a problem, but it should be done on the same day and if possible same time (or same morning or afternoon) If you were to disconnect your smoke alarm apart from causing a potential fault, you would be putting others lives, as well as yours in danger.

It depends on the concentration of carbon monoxide as to how long before a CO alarm will sound. Carbon monoxide alarms should be changed as they come to the end of the working life (The working age should be listed on the detector.) So to have "an old one" could be the reason it activated.

Make and model of this smoke detector please.

I presume you mean Deta? In any case I doubt it is the smoke alarm itself causing your RCD to trip, but you could try the following: Take ALL of your smoke alarms down (switch the mains off, leave the battery in) reset the RCD. Does it still trip? If it does, there is not a problem with any smoke alarm. If it does not trip, put each smoke alarm back, one at a time and observe what happens. Are there any lights on the same circuit as the smoke alarms? (Ideally the smoke alarms should be on the same circuit as lights, the idea being if smoke alarms are on there own MCB and it trips you will not know until they start chirping due to low battery, or it has been known for some folk to turn them off because they "will not start chirping" (a pointless exercise) but if the smoke alarms are on the lighting circuit, you will not last long without lights) The other thing to ask is, has ANY work been carried out recently? (Including any new light fittings) as it may be possible a nail or screw has partially punctured a cable, causing the RCD to trip. I once went to help a tripping RCD and the lawn mower was being blamed, after some testing it transpired there was a leak in the pond and water was running onto some electrical connections, the lawn mower was just enough to push the RCD to trip, once the pond leak was resolved all was well.

I should point out that the guest (Who posed the question on October 26) is in the USA* so 4 above does not apply. Another thing to try first is to take the CO alarm down/off the wall and take it outside into fresh air. If the unit stops then take the unit back inside, if it starts again you do have a CO leak, proceed as above. If the unit does not stop when out side reset it, and see does it start again.

The instructions state that you should press and hold the test button for at least 10 seconds to reset an Aico alarm, after which it should revert to normal operation, part of which is the red LED will flash every 40 seconds (approx) The green LED should remain constantly on to indicate mains is present. I should also suggest you find out which alarm you have for when the time comes to replace it, as there is no such thing as an "optical heat alarm"

Combined alarms (CO and smoke) are used to "save space" so that you do not need to have two alarms mounted adjacent each other. When activated they will "pulse" differently according to what they have detected. This makes them no use in kitchens, as the fumes/smoke from everyday cooking can still set off the smoke alarm. Heat alarms are best for most kitchens

Which model of alarm is it? You also say it gives 3 chirps every few hours, but you also say you have 3 smoke alarms, do they all chirp at the same time, or is it just one? Switch the mains back on, as switching it off will only make matters worse, as they will now be running on battery only. How old are the smoke alarms, when did you last change the batteries in your smoke alarms? I should also mention that as you posted at 01:23 this is a public forum and most of us are asleep at that time, which is why you do not get an "instant" reply, but a reply as and when we are able.

If you are sure it is the base that is beeping (some do have a battery and electronics) then I suggest you take the base down. BUT are you sure it is the base as often it transpires there is another smoke alarm/co alarm hidden away, or sitting in a drawer nearby. Below is a copy of a post by "Spud" I was convinced the beep was coming from my downstairs smoke alarm. I switched off the relevant fuse in my fuse box, took the cover off the alarm (push in screwdriver and slide off, in case anyone is having problems), replaced the battery and was sure the base was beeping. I was wrong. It was actually coming from the upstairs alarm. It was only when I got frustrated and stood next to the upstairs alarm I could identify the true source of the sound. I took that down, removed battery, discharged the alarm by holding the button down (a very sad strangled final beep was emitted), replaced the battery and put it back up, then switched the fuse back on. So far, so good. I hope that helps someone- check your other alarms!

The green LED is on to indicate the detector has mains. The red LED flashes (Aprox) every 30/40 seconds to indicate that the detector is working as it should.

Please do not ask other posters a question, the reason being that they will often post a question and never be heard from again, the poster you are "asking" posted 2 years ago, never to be heard from again. Several questions for you. What is the make / model of your smoke alarm? How old is it? When did you last change its battery? When did you last clean it? Does it work when you press the test button? Have you had ANY electrical work carried out in the last 2 months? I ask these questions as I am not there, so I do not know the answers. Sometimes people assume that all the smoke alarms they have are all the same, they should be but sometimes they are not, that is why I ask you to check the make and model.

If it does not chirp when not connected to the base, then it could be caused by another device that is connected that has a nearly low battery. I would take all the other interconnected devices down, put the heat alarm back, then check the other devices battery age and put them back one by one.

Forgive me if I am in error, but you have already asked the same question earlier (See your reply from Anthony B Click here) but this time you seem to be asking how to do the job in terms of what you can or can not connect to a sounder. Most fire alarms nowadays are addressable, you would need to add an interface which is compatible with the fire panel, which is then connected to the appropriate alarm loop and the door release is connected to the interface, then you tell the fire panel when you want the interface to operate. (The panel will also monitor the interface.) Fire alarms have become specialist, long gone are the days with twin and earth to call points and pyro for mains sounders.

Confirming some facts: Which model are your smoke alarms? When were the batteries last changed? Did you look around all of the smoke alarms when they activated? Were there any visible signs or smells of anything unusual? How did you try to stop them? Is this only the second time you have had a false alarm? Did you time how long they sounded for? as going off twice in two weeks is not Was anything happening outside the property? Builders, large delivery lorry, bonfire? What time of day (Roughly) were the activations? Were any windows open? Have they been silent since? Do you test them on a regular basis? Only asking to establish some facts.

It has been known. But in the UK we don't often use domestic ionisation smoke alarms

It would appear that Ajax are a "new" burglar alarm manufacturer who also make a combined smoke/heat/CO detector for use with their system (As opposed to stand alone.) and they do NOT make fire alarms, also nothing they offer is wired. There are better options out there. I would guess the "Online event" will be a sales / recruiting pitch

I presume you mean suite? It should have had a permanent label sewn to it somewhere, if this is no longer there, then if you are a professional seller/retailer then no you can not sell it. If you are a private individual, it will be up to the buyer if they wish to buy it or not. If they do not want it, it will have to be disposed of at the dump as charity shops will NOT accept it if it does not have a permanently attached "fire label"

So long as the fire alarm complies to the regulations it is possible to use any brand of fire alarm. The most popular fire alarm for non domestic alarms is made by EMS. If on the other hand you mean alarms for domestic premises then they can have radio interlinked devices (No actual fire panel) the most popular is made by Aico.

What exactly is happening in your situation, and what is the make and model of your smoke alarm and how old is it, and when did you last change its battery?

This is a fire safety forum, not a legal forum. I can only suggest you seek advice from a solicitor etc.

If the alarm indicated low battery, I would suspect it needs a new battery. Since the other CO alarm remained silent, and sounded when you pressed the test button, this would indicate a problem (Low battery?) with the first CO alarm. A few questions. How old are they both? When did you last change the batteries? What is the make and model of each CO alarm? I should also point out that CO2 is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy, it is also what CO2 fire extinguishers are filled with. Carbon Monoxide is written as CO