green-foam

You would need to have a dedicated "fire escape window" not what you have. Also fire escape windows are not installed above 4.5m from ground level. There must be a "protected stairwell" instead. Emergency fire escape ladders (The ones that you store away) are not made for such heights, which is why you can not find one. Also in the UK fire escape ladders are not recommended as very young and very old people can not use them. I would however make sure you have working smoke alarms in your flat and also an easy to reach working torch.

In general management companies are just that, they manage things and make money for themselves, to check all fire doors for compliance (apart from the obvious failures) they would have to get a certified fire door inspector in (which wouldn't be cheap) and the logistics (and so cost) of checking all doors would be extortionate. If you want your own fire door changed, most carpenters will "have a go" but can not certify the work, (Which I suspect is why you had problems) so I suggest you search for "certified fire door installer in xxxxxxx" (Where ever you live) Bear in mind it is not unusual to change the door and frame as it comes as a set (Including hinges and associated door furniture.)

I would suggest you do not install a carbon monoxide alarm near the airing cupboard. Carbon monoxide alarms detect carbon monoxide which is produced from improperly burnt fossil fuel, airing cupboards are where "hot water storage cylinders" are housed and as such never produce carbon monoxide. 🙂 I would also suggest that you install an interlinked smoke alarm in the main bedroom as well as elsewhere, the reasoning is, IF the smoke alarms should activate and the bedroom door is shut, you will be alerted quicker as the closed door will reduce the sound level. I feel I should also point out that nest protect devices have an inbuilt redundancy feature, in that on the units 10th birthday it will stop working ☹️ the problem with this is if you buy a unit and it is already, say 12 months old, it will stop working 9 years later (it will give you 2 weeks notice) All other brands will work after 10 years of age but not as efficiently. (Yes you should still change them, but unlike the nest devices you don't have to rush.) I would suggest Aico alarms as they cost considerably less, and work past their 10th birthday. 💬For future reference, CO2 is carbon dioxide, it is what you find in fire extinguishers and it is also what gives drinks their "fizz" Carbon monoxide is CO it is given off by incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. Most smoke alarms have a working life of 10 years, older CO alarms have a working life of 5 - 7 years

It seems it depends which base you have. I googled and found a base that has a "hidden" battery (But I can not find a definitive answer.) The only other thing I can suggest is call Aico direct, it would also be appreciated if you could post back with the results.

Insurance companies often look for a reason to decline a claim. The only thing you can do is ask your insurance company............but then they would know you have probably changed something on the door.

The reason it is not a good idea to mix brands of mains smoke alarms is the interlink connection, most smoke alarms can not safely interlink to another brand (Some will just Not work). So a battery operated smoke alarm is better than nothing, BUT it can not be interlinked, which in turn defeats the point of having interlinked smoke alarms. If the property is in Scotland or Wales you have to have interlinked smoke alarms. Safelincs supply a variety of smoke alarms Click here

Any smoke alarm can be activated by car exhaust, might not happen every time but it can and will happen, it would also depend on what exactly your car emits, you may want to try optical smoke alarm, but also as I said get interlinked alarms and have another on the landing.

The "best alarm" is one that you like the look of, is easy to install, and you are happy with the price. That aside, a smoke alarm in a garage is not a lot of use if it is the only one you have, if it should activate and you are all asleep chances are you will not hear it, so I would suggest you buy a smoke alarm that is compatible with what you already have. If you have no other smoke detectors buy some that are interlinkable either by hardwire or radio. Radio interlinked cost more, but you save on disruption and time. You should have a minimum of an alarm on each level and one adjacent any other sleeping areas if required.

Hi, sadly there is no direct replacement for the Deta 1151 anymore. If you have more than one smoke alarm I would strongly suggest you change them all at the same time. (You can't "mix and match" brand of smoke alarm) My suggestion would be aico, click me

This a fire safety forum and as such does not offer legal advice.

Why don't you ask the FRA assessor what he bases his opinion on?

Why would you want to protect wooden furniture from fire? It needs to be 450 degrees C before it will burn, I, for one, would not be sitting around to watch. If it is being stored have you considered a sprinkler system?

I would suggest that if you have more than one Deta 1111 smoke alarm that whilst replacing the problematic unit, it would be a good idea to change any others too, as they too are obsolete. Also a point to note, the suggested replacement can be interlinked, the Deta 1111 does NOT have an interlink terminal.

Thanks for that Jo, a lot of people overlook the obvious.

If a carbon monoxide alarm activates, take it outside and wait for it to stop (Should be no more than a few minutes) Take it back inside and if it does not start again it has false alarmed. After you bring it back inside, and it starts again, or if you have 2 or more independent CO alarms and they both activate open ALL windows and doors, if in the UK call 0800 111 999 NEVER take the batteries out, unless the unit has replaceable batteries and the new ones are infront of you. Carbon monoxide alarms have a variety of reasons to "False alarm" Listed below, in no particular order are some reasons that can cause a CO alarm to sound 1) Unit getting old 2) Battery failing 3) Screed recently laid (As yet, no definitive answer, but newly laid screed is often the cause for CO alarms to activate) 4) Pocket/cloud of carbon monoxide (Example bonfire outside, vehicle starting close to premises) 5) Open window 6) Unit flooded/water ingress 7) Someone in the building pressed the test button (It has been known to have been done before) 8 ) Unit is getting cold In an ideal world you should have 2 or more CO alarms, one near any fuel burning appliance, another in the hall.

Let your solar installers do what they are good at. If you are in Scotland then you MUST have interlinked smoke alarms, this can either be hard wired OR radio interlink. Standalone battery smoke alarms are not acceptable. If you are a private individual in the UK and it is for your own residence you can do as you see fit, but all new builds and alterations must have smoke alarms. But as I first said, lofts are usually insulated, so a non interlinked smoke alarm should sound if required, but no guarantee you will hear it lower down, which is why I asked what you have already with the idea of interlinking to those, but if you have none or battery standalone smoke alarms now would be a good time to have some interlinked (Radio OR hard wired, both are acceptable) installed or if radio you can DIY

☹️ Your question is?

Not being pedantic, but for your insurance company you should say smoke alarm, not Fire alarm. As for which one to have, what have you already got installed? I would suggest that as it will be in the loft, lofts are generally insulated, so you may not hear it if it activates, like wise if you are downstairs, and it activates you will probably not hear it, so I wound suggest your loft smoke alarm be interlinked with what you have, or at least, interlinked to another one on the landing.

Don't know about cert, but do you test them (once a year) for a full 3 hours?

It is known that some folk put black tape over the Single charging LED on emergency lights to prevent the bright glare. In an ideal world this should not be done, but it does not affect the workings of the light. It is like changing a lampshade on a table light, its still the same light, but it looks different.

There are a variety of reasons why your smoke alarm can activate "for no reason" How old is the smoke alarm? When did you last clean it? Does it always happen in daylight? Has it happened again since you asked?

Hello, this being a UK based forum, we do not have propane alarms as an everyday item. None of the information I have found suggests mounting the alarm on the floor/low level. That aside, if your alarm does, as you say " really weird/acting up for months" then I would suggest you buy another (different brand) alarm and follow the manufacturers installation instructions

Too old for a fire label? But that aside, as you are a private individual offering it to another private individual (How you find them is your choice) it is up to the other private individual if they wish to accept it or not.

Sorry, but I doubt Kevin1996 will ever answer you, as he asked way back in January, if you look at the speech bubble under his name, he only ever made one post. 🤨 Make and model of the smoke alarm. If you are 100% sure you have the correct smoke alarm (It is not unusual to find another alarm nearby with a low battery) why not change it for another one that is same make/model (There are no user serviceable parts in any smoke alarm) How old is the smoke alarm? How often does it chirp? What happens if you take the smoke detector down, and take its battery out?

All the information I have found is either sales orientated or the specifications, no "error codes" so I can only suggest you contact Hispec. It would be nice if you could let us know the outcome 🙂