green-foam

I would suggest that if you have more than one Deta 1111 smoke alarm that whilst replacing the problematic unit, it would be a good idea to change any others too, as they too are obsolete. Also a point to note, the suggested replacement can be interlinked, the Deta 1111 does NOT have an interlink terminal.

Thanks for that Jo, a lot of people overlook the obvious.

If a carbon monoxide alarm activates, take it outside and wait for it to stop (Should be no more than a few minutes) Take it back inside and if it does not start again it has false alarmed. After you bring it back inside, and it starts again, or if you have 2 or more independent CO alarms and they both activate open ALL windows and doors, if in the UK call 0800 111 999 NEVER take the batteries out, unless the unit has replaceable batteries and the new ones are infront of you. Carbon monoxide alarms have a variety of reasons to "False alarm" Listed below, in no particular order are some reasons that can cause a CO alarm to sound 1) Unit getting old 2) Battery failing 3) Screed recently laid (As yet, no definitive answer, but newly laid screed is often the cause for CO alarms to activate) 4) Pocket/cloud of carbon monoxide (Example bonfire outside, vehicle starting close to premises) 5) Open window 6) Unit flooded/water ingress 7) Someone in the building pressed the test button (It has been known to have been done before) 8 ) Unit is getting cold In an ideal world you should have 2 or more CO alarms, one near any fuel burning appliance, another in the hall.

Let your solar installers do what they are good at. If you are in Scotland then you MUST have interlinked smoke alarms, this can either be hard wired OR radio interlink. Standalone battery smoke alarms are not acceptable. If you are a private individual in the UK and it is for your own residence you can do as you see fit, but all new builds and alterations must have smoke alarms. But as I first said, lofts are usually insulated, so a non interlinked smoke alarm should sound if required, but no guarantee you will hear it lower down, which is why I asked what you have already with the idea of interlinking to those, but if you have none or battery standalone smoke alarms now would be a good time to have some interlinked (Radio OR hard wired, both are acceptable) installed or if radio you can DIY

☹️ Your question is?

Not being pedantic, but for your insurance company you should say smoke alarm, not Fire alarm. As for which one to have, what have you already got installed? I would suggest that as it will be in the loft, lofts are generally insulated, so you may not hear it if it activates, like wise if you are downstairs, and it activates you will probably not hear it, so I wound suggest your loft smoke alarm be interlinked with what you have, or at least, interlinked to another one on the landing.

Don't know about cert, but do you test them (once a year) for a full 3 hours?

It is known that some folk put black tape over the Single charging LED on emergency lights to prevent the bright glare. In an ideal world this should not be done, but it does not affect the workings of the light. It is like changing a lampshade on a table light, its still the same light, but it looks different.

There are a variety of reasons why your smoke alarm can activate "for no reason" How old is the smoke alarm? When did you last clean it? Does it always happen in daylight? Has it happened again since you asked?

Hello, this being a UK based forum, we do not have propane alarms as an everyday item. None of the information I have found suggests mounting the alarm on the floor/low level. That aside, if your alarm does, as you say " really weird/acting up for months" then I would suggest you buy another (different brand) alarm and follow the manufacturers installation instructions

Too old for a fire label? But that aside, as you are a private individual offering it to another private individual (How you find them is your choice) it is up to the other private individual if they wish to accept it or not.

Sorry, but I doubt Kevin1996 will ever answer you, as he asked way back in January, if you look at the speech bubble under his name, he only ever made one post. 🤨 Make and model of the smoke alarm. If you are 100% sure you have the correct smoke alarm (It is not unusual to find another alarm nearby with a low battery) why not change it for another one that is same make/model (There are no user serviceable parts in any smoke alarm) How old is the smoke alarm? How often does it chirp? What happens if you take the smoke detector down, and take its battery out?

All the information I have found is either sales orientated or the specifications, no "error codes" so I can only suggest you contact Hispec. It would be nice if you could let us know the outcome 🙂

Why not get another quote?

I suggest you ask at the place that gave you the figures. This is a help, forum, NOT a debate forum.

Safelincs show how to remove it, when you need to change the battery. But I suspect you have probably done it by now as this forum is so slow. 😒(You asked Wednesday, it is now the following Monday) Also make sure that the base has NOT been painted, as this will "seal" the detector to the base. If this has been done use a utility knife to carefully cut this paint seal.

Make and model of the smoke alarm. If you are 100% sure you have the correct smoke alarm (It is not unusual to find another alarm nearby with a low battery) why not change it for another one that is same make/model (There are no user serviceable parts in any smoke alarm) What country are you in? How often does it chirp? What happens if you take the smoke detector down, and take its battery out?

Could you please explain your thinking behind that? How is any fire stop material going to stop an electrical surge through a cable?

And your question is?

I would say it was made in 1969 in America by the Ascoa company, they are still in existence (or the subsidiary is) As thousands were made it has no monetary value, I would also suggest you do not use it due to its age.

In my travels, I have seen two basement conversions very similar to what you describe. One had (as you said) a banister/railing in the garden to prevent anyone falling down to the basement. (There was a permanent ladder bolted to the wall) The other place I have seen was similar, but had a very low wall and a grille/door just below the wall which opened outwards to allow escape, and as before, there was a permanent ladder bolted to the wall. Perhaps you could ask would this be acceptable in your situation? (I am only describing what I have seen, I do not have any pictures or further information)

The idea of a flashing light is to indicate that the device is still working. If the light is troubling you, you could consider moving the detector, so long as it is still in the area it is monitoring.

If you are a private seller, then the regulations do not apply to you, it is really down to the buyer if they want to buy it or not, the good news is, the smaller label is a "fire label"

Sprinklers are a requirement in new build housing and conversions in Wales and have been since 2013, so it would not be acceptable to "not use it" Also, as of July 2022 all new rented properties in Wales must have interlinked smoke alarms, if the renter moved in before 7/22 then they must have smoke alarms installed by December 2023 More information can be found if you Click here

All sofas sold commercially must have a fixed fire label, which you can not do. If you are a private individual, selling it/putting it on an auction site this is a private sale, so it is up to the buyer if they want it or not. A charity shop will not take it at all as it has no fire label