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Everything posted by green-foam
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Emergency lighting - do I need test switches?
green-foam replied to Ian's topic in Emergency Lighting
You only need to establish "Do the emergency lights come on in a power failure" (Which as you said is done by operating the EL test switch) you do not need to turn "normal" lights off plunging the place into potential darkness unnecessarily. -
Make and model of smoke alarm please, and what do you mean by "She’s racing out there right now"
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Your question is a legal one, this is a fire safety forum and as such does not offer legal advice.
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Hi Sharon, Louisa asked the question way back in 2016 (It is now 2023) she has never been back since, so will never reply to you, I can only suggest you do as Tom suggested.
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The threaded part of a CO2 fire extinguisher (as shown) is not replaceable. (It is under extremely high pressure around 55 bar) Safelincs can supply you with another CO2 extinguisher for around £30 Click Here
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Emergency lighting - do I need test switches?
green-foam replied to Ian's topic in Emergency Lighting
There are generally two types of emergency light. Maintained is an EM light that is illuminated at all times, and if there is a power failure it will stay illuminated as it has a battery back up that will last for a minimum of 3 hours. Non maintained are EM lights that only illuminate in the event of a power failure, and will last for a minimum of 3 hours I wonder are you thinking of self testing EM lights? Self testing EM lights "do as it says on the tin" they carry out all the required tests without help, they only have timer software, so that means they will carry out all required tests over 12 months but you can not determine when as they have no calender software. Self testing EM lights also have multiple coloured LEDs and a "beeper" and problems or potential problems are indicated by the sequence / colour of the LED's and beeper. The colours/flashes vary according to each manufacturer. In general, after installation and power up the software starts, 24 hours later the light will carry out a 3 hour duration test, after that it will change to a 30 second test (To establish if the light will illuminate on battery power) once a month, it will start the whole sequence from the beginning 12 months later, as said previously, if any problem is detected then a LED / beeper / sequence will initiate. As the lights are independent it would be wise to simply look at the indicator LED on each light once a month. -
I can't help but think that the person who asked the question has long gone since they asked in 2014, and the next person asked in 2020, then again in 2021. My point being this topic has been inactive for years, so pointless posting.
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If you pressed the test button and nothing happened it means the unit is not working as it should, and as it has no user serviceable parts the whole thing should be changed A.S.A.P. either that or you did not press the button correctly.
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Most fire alarm panels can have a delay on all sounders operating, to avoid evacuating when there is a false alarm from a smoke detector, obviously someone must check where the alarm was activated. (Call points and heat detectors are usually not delayed) In general, guests do not stay long in hotels, what are the chances of two false alarms?
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Check the age of the alarm, it only has a life expectancy of 10 years, you could try cleaning it with a vacuum cleaner, also take the battery out, disconnect it from the mains and press and hold the test button for at least 20 seconds (it may make some odd noises) Then put it all back. If the above does not solve your problem (and it is less than 10 years old) as there are no user serviceable parts, you have no option other than to change it. I would also suggest that you may want to change brands, but if you do this you will have to change ALL your smoke and or CO alarms, as you can not mix and match brands. If so, I would suggest you Click here
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I guess it my advice was not heeded as intended, it is still CO NOT CO2. And yes much to most folks surprise nest alarms will stop working on the 10th birthday, that is the 10th year since they were manufactured, NOT the 10th year after installation, but yes they will have a yellow light and announce that the unit should be changed.
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Possibly. I would have asked more questions, but as you asked last week, and the probability of you replying is almost zero, it seems pointless. (It's just the way this forum works.)
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You would need to have a dedicated "fire escape window" not what you have. Also fire escape windows are not installed above 4.5m from ground level. There must be a protected stairwell instead. Emergency fire escape ladders (The ones that you store away) are not made for such heights, which is why you can not find one. Also in the UK fire escape ladders are not recommended as very young and very old people can not use them. I would however make sure you have working smoke alarms in your flat and also an easy to reach working torch.
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In general management companies are just that, they manage things and make money for themselves, to check all fire doors for compliance (apart from the obvious failures) they would have to get a certified fire door inspector in (which wouldn't be cheap) and the logistics (and so cost) of checking all doors would be extortionate. If you want your own fire door changed, most carpenters will "have a go" but can not certify the work, (Which I suspect is why you had problems) so I suggest you search for "certified fire door installer in xxxxxxx" (Where ever you live) Bear in mind it is not unusual to change the door and frame as it comes as a set (Including hinges and associated door furniture.)
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I would suggest you do not install a carbon monoxide alarm near the airing cupboard. Carbon monoxide alarms detect carbon monoxide which is produced from improperly burnt fossil fuel, airing cupboards are where "hot water storage cylinders" are housed and as such never produce carbon monoxide. 🙂 I would also suggest that you install an interlinked smoke alarm in the main bedroom as well as elsewhere, the reasoning is, IF the smoke alarms should activate and the bedroom door is shut, you will be alerted quicker as the closed door will reduce the sound level. I feel I should also point out that nest protect devices have an inbuilt redundancy feature, in that on the units 10th birthday it will stop working ☹️ the problem with this is if you buy a unit and it is already, say 12 months old, it will stop working 9 years later (it will give you 2 weeks notice) All other brands will work after 10 years of age but not as efficiently. (Yes you should still change them, but unlike the nest devices you don't have to rush.) I would suggest Aico alarms as they cost considerably less, and work past their 10th birthday. 💬For future reference, CO2 is carbon dioxide, it is what you find in fire extinguishers and it is also what gives drinks their "fizz" Carbon monoxide is CO it is given off by incomplete combustion of fossil fuels. Most smoke alarms have a working life of 10 years, older CO alarms have a working life of 5 - 7 years
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It seems it depends which base you have. I googled and found a base that has a "hidden" battery (But I can not find a definitive answer.) The only other thing I can suggest is call Aico direct, it would also be appreciated if you could post back with the results.
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Insurance companies often look for a reason to decline a claim. The only thing you can do is ask your insurance company............but then they would know you have probably changed something on the door.
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Combining mains-powered and battery-powered smoke alarms
green-foam replied to a topic in Smoke Alarms
The reason it is not a good idea to mix brands of mains smoke alarms is the interlink connection, most smoke alarms can not safely interlink to another brand (Some will just Not work). So a battery operated smoke alarm is better than nothing, BUT it can not be interlinked, which in turn defeats the point of having interlinked smoke alarms. If the property is in Scotland or Wales you have to have interlinked smoke alarms. Safelincs supply a variety of smoke alarms Click here -
Any smoke alarm can be activated by car exhaust, might not happen every time but it can and will happen, it would also depend on what exactly your car emits, you may want to try optical smoke alarm, but also as I said get interlinked alarms and have another on the landing.
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The "best alarm" is one that you like the look of, is easy to install, and you are happy with the price. That aside, a smoke alarm in a garage is not a lot of use if it is the only one you have, if it should activate and you are all asleep chances are you will not hear it, so I would suggest you buy a smoke alarm that is compatible with what you already have. If you have no other smoke detectors buy some that are interlinkable either by hardwire or radio. Radio interlinked cost more, but you save on disruption and time. You should have a minimum of an alarm on each level and one adjacent any other sleeping areas if required.
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Hi, sadly there is no direct replacement for the Deta 1151 anymore. If you have more than one smoke alarm I would strongly suggest you change them all at the same time. (You can't "mix and match" brand of smoke alarm) My suggestion would be aico, click me
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This a fire safety forum and as such does not offer legal advice.
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Why don't you ask the FRA assessor what he bases his opinion on?
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Why would you want to protect wooden furniture from fire? It needs to be 450 degrees C before it will burn, I, for one, would not be sitting around to watch. If it is being stored have you considered a sprinkler system?