green-foam

Why? What is inside your lift that will catch fire? Is not the best thing to do if there is a fire in a lift to get out at the next floor? By the time you have read the instructions of the extinguisher the lift should be at the next floor.

Sorry to not agree with Harry, but the first thing an electrician will do is isolate them from the supply, so they will not be live. Next the cable for that detector should be removed completely and or any remaining cables moved accordingly. It depends how yours are configured as to how this is done. You don't actually require an electrician, a competent person can do this. I would also have to ask, could the detector not be moved elsewhere in the room, as by removing it you are reducing your "cover"

You have only need to take out the one where the smoke machine will be.

Judging by your diagram, its wired in conduit, not twin and earth. Either way, apart from the error which you state, it looks like it will work.

Sounds like they are "maintained" emergency lights. Maintained emergency lights are lit all the time.

If it beeps every hour on the hour, and you are at your parents house I would guess its......................an alarm clock that chimes.every hour on the hour. Its not unusual for the sound to sound like it is coming from somewhere else, but I doubt its the CO alarm.

Tom, I believe Robinlo means a system made by / similar to Fike. It does as said, in that it only uses 2 cores and you install "devices" on this cable. The most common device is the detector / sounder. Each device has a range of options that enable it to be a smoke detector, a heat detector, a combination, as well as being a sounder. They are NOT addressable and are favoured by electricians "as they are simple to install and make a great profit" However unlike most fire alarms you can easily remove any device and the panel will not indicate that a device has been removed. There are also available just manual call points and strobes, but I have yet to see one fitted. (I am not saying the MCP are never fitted, just I haven't seen one as they are not cheap)

I wonder how old the lights are? and if they are more than 3 years when were the batteries in them changed? If the fittings are old, and need new batteries, it may be worth considering new fittings, safelincs can supply them for £13.67 each Click here

Sorry to differ , I would get a fire alarm company in to quote and install / maintain a fire alarm. I have seen electricians install fire alarms and the alarm does not comply to the regulations it was installed for. I am not saying that all electricians get fire alarms wrong, I am saying that electricians do not need to know fire alarm regulations to be an electrician, long gone are the days of Pyro with mains bells and call points..

If you have two identical CO alarms, you could swap them over and if the "new" alarm goes off then you know you do have CO in the room

Why not get a fire alarm company to quote the job? Fike are often installed by electricians because they function, easy to install and inexpensive, but they are not ............"the brightest button in the box"

Its down to what the manufacturer says in their guidelines. The life expectancy of a sealed lead acid battery varies between 3 and 5 years (Depending on brand) Batteries should be tested at least once a year. If they fail the test they should be changed, but to fail every year ? A lot of companies use a specialist battery discharge test meter. This meter gives a reading of the "approximate remaining capacity" of the battery under test. You could ask them do they use this meter and if so can you see the results yourself. (It is not uncommon to log the results of each battery test, so that you can see over time (years) the resulting figure getting lower and lower. The battery should be changed before it gets below the limit set for that battery capacity) Also it is a good idea to write on the battery its installation date with an indelible pen.

To add to what Harry has mentioned, I was recently speaking to someone who said they had a "beeping noise" from a part of their house, and they took the smoke detector down and took the battery out (I know, bad idea, since they will never put it back) but they still heard the beeping, after more searching they found that another smoke detector had been installed in the "electric cupboard" and it was this that had a low battery. My point being always be 100% sure the "beeping" is coming from the detector you suspect, and that there are no others in proximity of it.

I have only just seen your post, I looked up the manual on line and it says it uses 680 ohm resistors, but if you are extending a loop you should also move the EOL device to the new EOL position.

I have to ask, have you changed the battery in the ei141 too?

I have to ask, Udo, where are you / where is this laser cutter?

It would be up to the insurance company what they require (if anything) It is not law that you have to have smoke alarms in an unaltered house (But it is a very good idea that you do) A house that has had just a rewire does not have to have smoke alarms fitted, but as said previously it is a good idea. Smoke alarms have to be installed under building regulations if the house has had another another level installed, a loft conversion to a habitable area or any new habitable area above ground level.

As the clocks have just changed, why not change the battery in your smoke alarm now...........or you could wait until it starts to beep at an annoying time of the morning. Even some mains operated smoke alarms have a back up battery that will also need changing. Safelincs do supply batteries for smoke alarms Click here If you have an an Ei xxx smoke alarm or a Kidde mains smoke alarm and you are not sure how to change the battery, you can see the videos of how to change the battery if you Click here

Thanks for that Bill. People often say it IS the smoke detector or its base when it clearly has no batteries or power............ And for the record (sorry to be pedantic) its CO not CO2 CO is carbon monoxide and is lethal in tiny amounts. CO2 is carbon dioxide which is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy

Sorry if i appear to be pedantic, but first of all its CO, not CO2. CO is carbon monoxide, that is lethal. CO2 is carbon dioxide, it is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy.* I would say that your detector has a low battery. Even though it is mains operated some do have battery back up which will require changing as and when. You will need to read the instruction manual for your particular detector (Sorry but you did not say make or model) (*Carbon dioxide in very large quantities in a confined space is also not good for you.)

Could have been, but i doubt it, more probable is that the detector actually detected carbon monoxide. You didn't leave the windows open / ajar did you? Operate the detectors test button, if it works as described in its test manual, and does not indicate carbon monoxide again, then you have nothing to worry about.

It depends on the brand of the battery and its age. Some brands will last around 5 years some only 3 years. But which ever brand of battery you have they should be tested. If they pass the test there is no need to change them, however if they pass the test but are close to the end of their expected life it would be a good idea to change them. Obviously if they fail the test / show signs of corrosion / other defect they should be changed immediately.

Hi, could you clarify your question as you have said you have to have either CO2 or foam in place of CO2 or foam which is what you already appear to have. Dry powder is often no longer used in "confined spaces / indoors" as it reduces viability. It is often replaced by foam.