green-foam

The glass on the left has ABC powder, and the one on the right is BC powder, you can see that the ABC is slightly yellow

Not seen one, but why would you want one without? By way of the LED flashing indicates the device is powered, and so should work.

Whilst I agree with Tom that prevention is the best option, human error still occurs, as well as smoke detectors, I suggest a Water mist extinguisher for the kitchen area as this will cover almost anything and a Foam extinguisher for the remainder of the house. (Not to be used on LIVE electrical equipment) I am assuming it is a house? if it isn't, you may require a "non D.I.Y." fire alarm with fire panel I always look at it that its best to have one and never use it, than to need one and you haven't go one.

How long do they last if you turn the mains off?

Sorry, but what exactly is your question?

Assuming its a house (Interlinked smoke alarms are not suitable for commercial premisses) Then flex should not be used as it is not meant for fixed wiring. Also you may end up with more problems than you solve. It would be better to re-wire the whole thing in the correct cable.

To add to what Tom has said, an intruder alarm is just that, its an intruder alarm. Add what you like to it, it is NOT a life safety system, and as such it should never be relied upon to be a life safety system. Or to put it another way, a fire alarm has to have sound levels that are above the ambient background noise in all areas, the cable (particularly for the sounders) has to be able to with stand a fire for around 30 minutes. An intruder alarm has an external sounder and an internal speaker / sounder (if you are lucky) that is loud when the building is empty but often can be "drowned out" by other noises, and a standard alarm cable will last all of 30 seconds in a fire. Also most intruder alarms when they indicate fire, people often assume its the intruder alarm simply because its the same device making a noise, fire sounders are usually bright red to help identify its to indicate fire.

Tom will no doubt give the definitive answer but I would suggest that if you have any plants they will need "looking after" and that means a watering can left on the stairs / landing (Its human nature) this will be followed by other "bits and pieces" because the watering can is there, so is the trowel and the bucket etc, if the stairs are kept clear at all times there is no reason for anything else to be there.

I would ask why do you have it. If its at your own private home, then look at its gauge once a year, and turn it upside down slowly then back again, then check the gauge if it stays green keep it. How many years you do this for is your choice, but the life expectancy is 10 years. If its for a commercial reason or a HMO and is part of the risk assessment then it will need to be serviced by a competent person annually. As an aside, safelincs can supply you with a 1kg dry powder fire extinguisher for £17.75+ postage http://www.safelincs.co.uk/ultrafire-redline-1kg-abc-dry-powder-fire-extinguisher/] So it means it is cheaper to replace it than to have it serviced or refilled.

I would say it depends on the make / model of the light as to what any LED configuration means, so regretfully unless you give further information .........................

Although what you say is true, you should replace the whole extinguisher, what type of premises are these / this extinguisher in? Also, what size is it / they? (in Kg)

Assuming you mean a Ei141 These are mains interlinked and not radio, as such do not require a "re-pair" (re-learn). If you have one that is silent when tested, I suggest you change it.

I thought similar, but then I looked again, that is a light fitting in the centre of the arch. I think (but am not sure) Tomcat wants advice as to where to put the smoke detector? But I agree with Tom, the arch will make a partition, so ideally it needs two smoke detectors, one either side of the arch.

Why? What is inside your lift that will catch fire? Is not the best thing to do if there is a fire in a lift to get out at the next floor? By the time you have read the instructions of the extinguisher the lift should be at the next floor.

Sorry to not agree with Harry, but the first thing an electrician will do is isolate them from the supply, so they will not be live. Next the cable for that detector should be removed completely and or any remaining cables moved accordingly. It depends how yours are configured as to how this is done. You don't actually require an electrician, a competent person can do this. I would also have to ask, could the detector not be moved elsewhere in the room, as by removing it you are reducing your "cover"

You have only need to take out the one where the smoke machine will be.

Judging by your diagram, its wired in conduit, not twin and earth. Either way, apart from the error which you state, it looks like it will work.

Sounds like they are "maintained" emergency lights. Maintained emergency lights are lit all the time.

If it beeps every hour on the hour, and you are at your parents house I would guess its......................an alarm clock that chimes.every hour on the hour. Its not unusual for the sound to sound like it is coming from somewhere else, but I doubt its the CO alarm.

Tom, I believe Robinlo means a system made by / similar to Fike. It does as said, in that it only uses 2 cores and you install "devices" on this cable. The most common device is the detector / sounder. Each device has a range of options that enable it to be a smoke detector, a heat detector, a combination, as well as being a sounder. They are NOT addressable and are favoured by electricians "as they are simple to install and make a great profit" However unlike most fire alarms you can easily remove any device and the panel will not indicate that a device has been removed. There are also available just manual call points and strobes, but I have yet to see one fitted. (I am not saying the MCP are never fitted, just I haven't seen one as they are not cheap)

I wonder how old the lights are? and if they are more than 3 years when were the batteries in them changed? If the fittings are old, and need new batteries, it may be worth considering new fittings, safelincs can supply them for £13.67 each Click here

Sorry to differ , I would get a fire alarm company in to quote and install / maintain a fire alarm. I have seen electricians install fire alarms and the alarm does not comply to the regulations it was installed for. I am not saying that all electricians get fire alarms wrong, I am saying that electricians do not need to know fire alarm regulations to be an electrician, long gone are the days of Pyro with mains bells and call points..

If you have two identical CO alarms, you could swap them over and if the "new" alarm goes off then you know you do have CO in the room

Why not get a fire alarm company to quote the job? Fike are often installed by electricians because they function, easy to install and inexpensive, but they are not ............"the brightest button in the box"

Its down to what the manufacturer says in their guidelines. The life expectancy of a sealed lead acid battery varies between 3 and 5 years (Depending on brand) Batteries should be tested at least once a year. If they fail the test they should be changed, but to fail every year ? A lot of companies use a specialist battery discharge test meter. This meter gives a reading of the "approximate remaining capacity" of the battery under test. You could ask them do they use this meter and if so can you see the results yourself. (It is not uncommon to log the results of each battery test, so that you can see over time (years) the resulting figure getting lower and lower. The battery should be changed before it gets below the limit set for that battery capacity) Also it is a good idea to write on the battery its installation date with an indelible pen.