green-foam

Would you drive your car into a wall to give the seat belts "an extra level of testing" No?, then why waft something smouldering under a smoke alarm? So long as the alarms all sound when the test button is pressed, you need not do anything else to test them. I have heard of people doing as you did and causing fires and so the insurance refuses to pay out, stay safe and just use the test button like normal people. 🙂 Holding smouldering / burning anything under a smoke alarm is NOT the way to test it.

Nice input 🙂 however, it has fallen on deaf ears as the original poster asked way back in 2022, and has never been back, so I would hope has solved the problem by now. The two who asked later, neither have been back, so we will never know if they looked at any of the other devices. (As I suggested.) The moral of this is, always check the date a post was last active before you post.🫢 (Just saying, Fire Fence is just as guilty, made the one post, never to be seen again 😧 )

As the window is 7m (at least) from ground level, it is not designed to be used as a fire exit.

To disconnect any Aico heat or smoke alarm, you first isolate the mains, remove the detector from its base, then remove the base from the ceiling, then use wago connectors to isolate the cable (One wago block per core) If you have two cables, (One in, one out) be sure to connect like for like colours together so the remaining detectors will still work.) Then restore the mains. But I would have to ask why you want to remove a life safety device?

Hi Karen, has the device beeped again since you asked? if not, press the test button on the device, if it operates as it should, then you have no need to worry. 🙂

It may be a risk assessment was later carried out and the findings found an evacuation chair was required. You should ask the management company.

I would also suggest you look at the sides of the alarm to make sure it is an ei141, If you have an ei141 it should be replaced as it past its 10 year life span.

A smoke detector should never have been installed in a kitchen, so yes, change it to a heat detector. A smoke alarm should be reset by removing its battery, and pressing the silence button for 15 seconds, then put the battery back.

Ask the building inspector for hi reasons.

That is a legal question, this is a fire safety forum. Click Here

As they have recently installed it, call them and ask them to look at it. I would need to know the exact model number to be more specific, but even then, it is not a user serviceable part.

It's your private house, do as you wish. It is not a fire safety issue

It looks like its a "water gas" extinguisher The plunger at the top is struck piercing a small cylinder inside releasing carbon dioxide gas. If it does not weigh much (meaning it is empty) I would suggest you may want to undo the black part it unscrews to prove it is empty. I see no reason ebay should have removed the listing, unless it was something you mentioned, there is one just like yours (along with a CO2 extinguisher) listed for £70, though I often see them listed with high prices, they are not worth it, I would suggest you take it down the tip.

All smoke alarms should have an expiry date printed on them. The average life span for a smoke alarm is 10 years. Personally, I would not be worried if I changed the smoke alarm by year 11, but I would say 25 years is too long.

I would say it would be easier to change the whole of each smoke alarm as opposed to trying to fit an adaptor that may or may not work/fit. I would suggest Aico as they have a solid base, no need for connector blocks and they have good customer service. Oh and they are inter-linkable

The brand of smoke alarm is your choice. If it were me, I would buy Aico smoke alarms, good detectors, an easy to connect to base, and excellent customer service.

A bathroom window has nothing to do with a fire risk. On a personal note, I would say you do not know why the window is shut, by the same token I would say she does not know why you keep opening the window. Perhaps the two of you should speak to each other.

It will carry on beeping until the battery is replaced. As it uses so little energy to do this, it can continue for as long as a month. Sorry to hear you are having problems, but it is as easy as shown in the video above. You need to stay where you are as you insert the screwdriver as shown in the first picture. I have found that a "terminal" screwdriver works just as well, after inserting it, GENTLY pull down (If the detector is mounted on the ceiling) This releases the catch, then push the main unit (The part with the LEDs) forward. (Away from you) You are correct, the Ei141 does contain radio active material, it is also now obsolete, and should be changed for the Ei146E which is an optical smoke alarm.

First of all I should point out that in the first instance you were right, carbon monoxide is written as CO, not as you went on to say CO2. There is a major difference in that carbon monoxide is lethal in small doses, CO2 is in short what makes fizzy drinks fizzy (That's just for starters) always be careful when writing its chemical formula. Back to your question. The Nest protect 2nd generation does have a heat sensor, however, the heat sensor does not create an alarm condition, it is there to tell the "Brain" of the detector that it is getting hot, and to adjust the sensitivity of the smoke sensor. This function means that it does not comply with building regulations for a kitchen. If you are wondering what heat detector is compatible with a nest protect (Like most folk) the answer is, I am sorry to say that Nest uses a closed protocol and there is not a compatible heat detector, and there are no plans to make one for the foreseeable future. So to comply with building regulations, you will have to change all your nest protects to a brand which does have a heat alarm and smoke alarm and be inter-linkable, to be honest it is not such a bad thing as I should point out a little known fact. On the 10th anniversary from manufacture (Not from installation) the nest protect will stop working It will notify you prior to this (at least a week) once this has happened there is nothing you can do. (You can not reset the timer, neither is there a "hidden code" to override it for a month or two) It does this as the sensors become unreliable, other brands of smoke alarm also have the same problem (Sensors expire) but unlike the nest they will continue to operate which will allow you more time to replace them. Click here to listen to what your nest protect will say (Example for the hall. Link is from nest website)

It may seem an odd suggestion, but I would agree, if you are having to change two smoke alarms, you would be better off changing all of them now, rather than wait till you have to change the others, this also means that you can install a totally different brand, one that does not require a "conversion kit"

Yes it would be safe. So long the panel has its own fused connection unit. It could also be taken from the lighting circuit (Still with an FCU for isolation/protection) that way if there is a problem it should soon be repaired as no one likes to go without lights.

As you note, a carbon monoxide detector will sound when it detects carbon monoxide and stop shortly after there is no carbon monoxide present. Since the detector in question has been problem free for most of the time, it could be one of two possibilities. 1) The detector is nearing the end of its useful life. (You do not say it's age) 2) The detector is actually detecting carbon monoxide (Have you or any of your neighbours had anything new / started to use a heater?) Since carbon monoxide is colourless and odour less, you could buy another carbon monoxide alarm (With digital counter would be preferable) place it adjacent the existing carbon monoxide alarm and monitor what happens.

Smoke alarm beeping roughly every 60 seconds is a sign of low standby battery.

You should not mix brands of hard wired interlinked smoke alarm incase they fail to operate in the event of fire. Radio interlinked smoke alarms will not recognise each other, so you can't interlink them.

The type of fire alarm that indicates the status of a specific device (Fire, missing, fault, contamination) is known as analogue addressable. It is the panel that "interrogates" all devices, (Call points, sounders, detectors etc) so no matter what you opt for, unless it is addressable, any panel will only indicate the zone or type of device operated, which is not what you are looking for. There are a variety of "2 wire panels" Kentec do make a panel which is compatible with what you currently have the "Kentec Sigma CP Sav-Wire" Part code T11040M2 Apollo AlarmSense detectors are designed for two wire systems, such as you have now. Apollo recommend that their detectors be changed every 10 years of working life.