green-foam

Hello Darren you say the red LED is blinking constantly, if the red LED flashes once every 40 seconds (Or close to 40 seconds) this is to indicate that all is well. The green LED is to indicate that mains is present. As an aside you should also clean your smoke alarms on an as and when basis. A crevice tool (The thin one) on your vacuum cleaner is good for this.

I would say that there is no set "time" since it will depend on your exact location and surrounding buildings (Making it darker earlier) and the closer to winter it gets the earlier it gets dark, why not suggest they install a photo cell outside? That way when it gets dark the lights will come on, and when it gets light they will turn off. Never any need for anyone to visit to change any timer.

Have you considered flashing beacons on the fire sounders? These can often be retro fitted and are relatively inexpensive.

Smoke detectors in general should be replaced every 10 years, If this detector is as old as you say, then it should be replaced, thereby removing the concern for a green light. As an aside LED's do not act as capacitors, even if they did, they would (in theory) emit the colour of light they are supposed to. Are you sure the material of the detector is not Luminous?

Following on from what Tom said, you may have overlooked the obvious, some one saw you.

That would be up to the manufacturer how they make their products "fire safe" To find the definitive answer it would be best to ask them, any thing else is only a guess. Regarding washing them, again it depends on what the manufacturer used, you may find the following article of use CLICK HERE

If it was 4 beeps in succession it may be that you have a "fire angel" CO alarm and that it did detect CO But if there is lots of CO then the detector would NOT stop beeping. Why don't you press the test button on the CO alarm to find out what it sounds like.

Take it down the tip.

What do the BBQ manufacturers instructions say ?

You would have to try one yourself to see if it the brand of adhesive you choose is suitable. The adhesive should be spread all over (Like you would butter bread) the reason is so you do not trap air above the tile, as you would if you followed the old "4 corner and one middle" dobs method.

Best ask your insurance company, as it is they who write your "rules"

That's what I thought. I also think that unless there is a lot of extinguishers to be serviced, the cost of your own insurance will be more than your friends will pay to have theirs serviced. Sometimes in life you have to walk away from a job, I think this is one of those times.

Just wondering. If your insurance etc is paid for by the MOD, will it be no longer valid if you are "working for some one who is NOT the MOD"

Bases only have connections and wires, they do not have any sounder at all, so it can not be the base in question. Have you looked on top of any cupboards nearby or any drawers / boxes nearby? I have heard of old devices still un opened in their packets found and the battery runs low after years. Also there may be one in the loft, be it one that is supposed to be there, or one that got put in a box for later......

If they are "mag locks" similar to the picture, then these are what is known as fail safe devices. So if there is a power failure they "fail safe" (not fail secure) and can not hold the door locked in the event of a power failure.

Is it one of these?

Why can those downstairs not go out through the front door? All doors leading off the communal area should be fire rated, so if the worst should happen they can stay put until the fire brigade arrive. I wouldn't want to go up to a flat roof if there was a fire. As an aside, how would anyone know what to do? you would have to have signs (of the right size installed) outside your flat as well as signs INSIDE your flat indicating which way to go, and as it would be a fire exit you would have to keep it clear all the time. Also anyone above the ground floor may wish to consider a portable fire escape ladder, safelincs supply a variety of them, Click here

Carbon monoxide does not smell and is colourless, so there is no point in scrubbing or cleaning anything. How long you ventilate depends on how much ventilation is carried out and the duration of said ventilation. If you were to open a small window in one room and there is no "through draft" it would take considerably longer to ventilate than if you were to open all the windows in the house (and doors to allow a through draft) A carbon monoxide alarm will stop sounding when the levels are safe. I would also make a physical note of the time and what appliances were on at that time, and also was anyone parked outside / in the garage (if you have one) as cars also give out carbon monoxide. The idea being if it happens often you should soon be able to track down the cause of the carbon monoxide.

My understanding is: When a CO2 Extinguisher is initially filled, it is done so with a specific amount of CO2 (depending on size of extinguisher) As the CO2 is under considerable pressure, most of it turns into a liquid inside the cylinder. The amount of liquid is NOT enough to fill the whole cylinder (its not meant to) As there is a "space" above the liquefied CO2 the CO2 "boils" turns into CO2 gas and fills this space at pressure. If there was a gauge fitted on the extinguisher (Like other stored pressure extinguishers) it would always show "full" since any CO2 in the extinguisher will "boil off" and fill the space, so giving the appearance of being full when it isn't. The easiest way to check a CO2 extinguisher is to weigh it and compare these weights to what is stamped on the body of the extinguisher. A "pressurised at use / cartridge" extinguisher (Like the one below) has no gauge because there is no pressure until its release mechanism is operated, at which time a CO2 cartridge is punctured, releasing CO2 which in-turn forces out the contents of the extinguisher. (Water in the case of the one shown above)

Have you not been in touch with Phoenix? (Click here) I am guessing they will want proof of purchase, failing that I would suggest you call a locksmith.

The dorgard by its design is a standalone unit, so even if you wanted to you can not connect it to anything else.

The fire labels have to be "part of the fabric" (sewn in when the item was made) Other wise anyone could add a "fire label" to anything. I would suggest you advertise it privately as "sold as seen" and mention it has no fire labels.

Using a plug to connect to a smoke detector is not only easier than terminals, it is safer and ensures that the detector is connected correctly when reconnected / replaced. I don't find removing a plug "complicated"

I agree with Harry. I can count on two hands the number of times I have had to investigate beeping from "smoke alarms with no battery" only to find that yes it is NOT the device in question, but another one nearby. The most often one I have had is a "spare" smoke alarm sitting on top of a cupboard in the same room as the suspect detector. Once there was another one in the loft ABOVE the offending one.

I like those.