green-foam

Just my thoughts: Whilst I agree with AnthonyB, I look at it that "The customer is always right, even when he is wrong" It's pointless arguing in this case, and if you keep the customer by changing the tags to grey ones I would do it, BUT send them an invoice of £0.00 stating "At customer request change all anti-tamper tags to customer specified grey tags" That way he can not turn round and say you are admitting they are "The wrong colour"

Keep the customer happy and use grey tags. A company I used to work for used a different colour every year.

The "safety lights" (as you called them) usually only illuminate if there is a power failure only. If there was no power failure then they will not illuminate. I have some in my own home for this very reason.

Since you have the particular unit , and I do not have one, what do the instructions say 4 loud beeps every minute mean?

It is usually carried out by specially trained fire extinguisher engineers / demonstrators. I would contact a few fire extinguisher companies local to you and ask them. I understand that you want to demonstrate the correct use of portable fire extinguishers, but I have to ask are you trained to give such information, what would your insurance company say if one of your attendees caused a serious fire?

Just to add, if you could have solar emergency lights, what would happen at night? There would be no sunshine so the lights would illuminate flattening the batteries making them useless. Not to mention that if the solar panels were roof mounted, who would clean them and remove the snow in winter. Solar EM lighting sounds a good idea, but the reality is, it's not possible and with technology, as it is it would still be more economical to buy mains operated EM lights, especially if you consider safe lincs can supply EM lights for less than £16.00 each Click here (Installation NOT included)

Hi AK13, I am sorry to say, but I very much doubt you will get a reply from "Vish" (The person who started this thread) as he posed the question 2 years ago ?, and has never been back and in the vague chance he did reply, as Tom points out, this is a United Kingdom based forum, so our rules / regulations would not apply in America ? I wish you luck in your search. ?

It needs to be corrected by a competent person. My guess is its wired wrong, or it is the wrong type of call point for your fire alarm panel. Not all call points are the same (other than the colour) fire panels look for various things (depending on panel) to indicate fire or fault, some use resistors other use diodes some have a "chip" if when activated the panel does not see what it is looking for then it shows a fault condition which will clear when the BGU is reset (as yours did) this indicates the cable is working but the call point itself is the problem.

AlieLeite, I hate to point this out, but Paul king who asked the question has probably solved it by now as he asked 21 months ago, (Jan 17) so has probably got it fixed by now.

First one that springs to mind is the nest protect, as sold by safelincs, Click here

There are several D.I.Y. "stand alone" door alarms that are available (any diy superstore) but in this instance i would suggest they would be pointless since your neighbours could easily turn them off or even remove them. If you decided to get an alarm company in to install an alarm on one door, it raises more questions, who would pay for it, who gave you permission for them to install it, who is going to turn it on, and those same people could always turn it off, again I would say in this case an alarm is not the way to proceed.

You need to check the supply to see if there is mains there. The other thing is what happens if you swap smoke alarms? does the one with no green light now have a green light? and the one that had a green light have no green light?

I have just had a brief read of the instructions, as far as I can tell, no green light means there is no mains supply to the detector, although you said you have switched it off and on are you sure it is still on or that a fuse has not blown? I would switch the mains off again take the detectors down and check the connection to the "plug" for each detector, make sure there are no loose wires. It does strike me as odd, that both have no green light....................unless there is no mains.

I believe all Paul has done is to change the Halogen lamp to an LED lamp, so the fitting is the same as was when it was fitted 16 years ago. I can not find when you HAD to fit fire proof downlights, all I did find was the building regulation for this is Part B, and this seems to have come into existence in 2010* There is also a misconception that ALL downlights must be fire proof, this is not the case, they must be fire proof if there is sleeping accommodation above where the downlights are installed. So if you were to install downlights in a loft conversion since there can be no sleeping accommodation above it would be acceptable to install non fire proof downlights. But most would install them anyway as the cost difference is now minimal (And I would guess this is where the misconception has evolved from.) * That is my "problem" I can not find anything that predates 2010 (After the original lights were installed) but I am interested to see what others say (Tom?)

It depends on make / model of your smoke alarm as to what it should or should not do, you do not say this information. If it is just battery operated it will have no green light and it is normal for the red light to flash, if it is mains operated most have a green light that should be constantly on to indicate mains is present.

Gordon sorry to point this out but your "guess" is wrong and Tom's statement is correct. Low voltage (as Tom mentioned) is anything that is less than 1000v ac, even if there is 3 phase in the block you live this will only be 415v ac. As 240v ac (The voltage we have in our homes) is considered by the electrical industry to be "Low Voltage" there is no requirement to have a sign which says "High Voltage" or "Danger of death" since only authorised persons should have access to the cupboard, and those that are authorised know what they can and more importantly can not do.

To add to what Harry says, I would also ask have you got a working smoke detector near the door? if not safelincs can supply those too Click here I would suggest an optical one. I would also suggest that you buy two fire extinguishers, hopefully you will never need to use either, but if you do use one you still have the other one as back up. Once used / partially used an extinguisher will loose all its remaining pressure over a short time, and needs to be refilled, but with the cost being so low for a new extinguisher, its often not worth it, so some times a bigger extinguisher is not always the best.

I would guess its back up battery is too old. Smoke alarms should be changed every 10 years, how old is yours?

Low battery is usually indicated by a "chirp" once every 60 seconds, if it were low battery I would not have expected it to stop. I have to ask, when was the last time you cleaned the smoke detector? and out of curiosity what brand of battery have you been using?, and how old is the detector?

As Harry said, its something else, it can not be cables / wires since they do not beep.

I agree with Tom, Carbon monoxide is generally considered to be the same density as air, but since it is often hot, it rises. I would guess (and it is only a guess) that your electrician is either confused or misunderstanding about carbon monoxide, allow me. Carbon monoxide is the same density as air and so it generally sits there. Its chemical formula in words is CO Carbon dioxide is heaver than air and will always fall to the lowest point that it can. Its chemical formula in words is CO2 I often find that people do not realise this fact and will often call a carbon monoxide detector a carbon dioxide detector or label its supply as "CO2 detector" when it should be "CO detector" I am guessing your electrician thinks that any carbon monoxide produced will "fall through the gap in the loft hatch" and activate the alarm. As I said carbon monoxide will not do that but carbon dioxide would fall through the gap. (But not set off a carbon monoxide alarm) Carbon dioxide is what makes fizzy drinks fizzy. And is only lethal in large volumes Carbon monoxide is the product of improper combustion and is lethal in minute volumes.

I would take that further and say anyone who is NOT a fire alarm engineer gets a "Frosty reply"

If you could add non addressable call point to the system (I don't think you can) would that not defeat the whole idea of it being addressable? (You would not know which call point had been operated)

I have to ask, what is this refillable air cylinder for, and what regulator and hoses have you got (what are they for)

I would suggest this is more of a legal matter than anything else. My thought would be to ask them to look at your device and take it from there / seek legal advice.