green-foam

It may be the batteries are nearly flat and are only able to power the LED display but too flat to open the bolt. Have you tried changing the batteries?

Most** extinguishers are designed to last 10 years. All but CO2* should be discharge tested stripped down, inspected and re filled every 5 years. The downside is that the cost of doing this is often more expensive than buying a new fire extinguisher Click here Older fire extinguishers are sometimes kept and used solely for "live fire" demonstration purposes, is not unusual for one of these extinguishers to fail to work properly. *CO2 extinguishers it is 10 years and they need to be stretch tested too. ** Britannia make some that are 10 year service free.

You need a watermist extinguisher (as mention by Shawn 3 posts above yours.) Safelincs can supply water mist extinguishers, Click here

I would say it depends on what is in the contract. From what you have said the original batteries were used and the new panel "does not like them" The question is were new batteries allowed for? I have often seen it where the panel was changed, not the battery because the customer did not want to pay for a new one. To any one reading this it does sound silly, but I have had people tell me to my face (in a polite manner) that the old battery is fine and they do not want me to change it, (I advise them the battery should be changed, but that they will be charged) and 3 guesses what happens later. (So I used to write on the battery "customer declined new battery") Hence my opening statement.

How old are they ?

Why not ask your council and ask them?

As Tom already said, It's your choice.

The forum owners (Safelincs) fire extinguisher page can be found if you Click here

Since the windows were open, and your smoke alarm has never gone off before, the probability is that a "pocket of smoke" was blown in and that is what the detector detected, it was doing its job. If you are changing the batteries, its a good idea to write the date on them too.

Could it be that being above the oven it is NOT a smoke detector, but a heat detector, which would explain why it did not go off with smoke, but did when you pressed the test button?

You only mention one beeping. As you have to smoke alarms the same, what happens if you swap them over?

I am wondering is it flashing rapidly because the electrician tested them. Have you tried pressing the hush/test button?

Same question, make and model of detector please. (Also what is make and model of one on landing)

That is a legal matter, not a fire related matter. I suggest your friend seeks legal advice. (But no, If it were me I would not be happy about it)

What is the make and model and age of this detector?

The base can not make a sound, also with no batteries or mains the detector can not chirp. We have seen many posts on here just like yours, and a few have come back and said they found they had another detector they had forgotten about and it was this that was chirping. The favourite in a kitchen is on top of the cupboards. Good luck, please let us know the out come.

Sorry if I am missing the obvious, If it is to open a door that goes inward, why can't you just open it with your foot or your elbow?

No, it would not be a good idea to run Ethernet cables under carpets. It has nothing to do with being a fire hazard, if run straight across under a carpet it could be a trip hazard, but more importantly the cable will get damaged and cause problems, not to mention it would also ruin the carpet. If you can't run the cables under the floor you can run them surface and clip them or better still put them in trunking.

Green light indicates power. No green light means no power. Have you checked the connections at the previous detector (Mains off first)

None of the above. All the sounders should continue to operate (Including the one that is in the fire) Just like This one. (Click here)

Were the previous detectors working before you changed them? Also how many cables do these detectors have? The reason is, if they have two cables that will be loop in and loop out, which in turn means they are all fed from the same supply, if however they have just one cable that probably means they are all fed from the nearest supply. (A light fitting?) If they have two cables, I would check at the last known working detector (loft in your case)

From what you have said, you tested it just after you replaced it without giving the battery time to fully charge. I would leave it to charge for 24 hours (to be sure) then turn the mains off again, this time the light should stay on for 3 hours.

I am not wishing to pedantic but just out of curiosity I am watching some old extinguishers on ebay, one was being sold for £60+postage, this one has just been re listed after no bids, another is going for £25 (no bids) Both are Minimax conical, and both were made in 1942, both are empty. Just saying that if they still had their original contents they may have sold.

That is true, but until it happens they are worth more. (As they are still full) Empty they are worth nothing as there are so many of them for sale, yes people ask for silly prices for them, but they don't get what they ask. I recall one was bing sold for £300, it went down to £150, it eventually sold for 99p

I would be willing to pay more if it is full because it would be unique, since all the others are empty.